In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
In a narrow street at the back of the Rue Sainte is a _zaouia_ where
those visitors whose curiosity is strong enough to overcome their
feelings of horror and repulsion may witness the terrible rites of the
Aïssaoua sect. This fanatical order of dervishes takes its name from the
Marabout Aïssa, a native of Morocco. Lost in the desert, he would have
perished from starvation, so the tradition goes, had not the miraculous
powers with which he was endowed enabled him to sustain himself on such
unusual forms of food as fire, snakes, scorpions, and the spiny leaves
of the prickly pear. The members of the sect imitate him, or pretend to
imitate him to this day, even improving upon the traditional performances
of their founder by eating broken glass, driving knives and skewers
through their flesh, and undergoing other self-inflicted tortures.
Whether the alleged “holy men” who stage their revolting performance
nightly in the back street of Biskra are actually members of the Aïssaoua
order is open to some question; certainly their exhibition is mere
child’s play to some that I have seen in Inner Asia. Yet they are hideous
and disgusting enough, heaven knows, and one wonders how Europeans,
particularly European women, can sit through them. Numbers do, however,
and become so fascinated that they forget to be horrified or to feel sick
until they get home.
The performance takes place in a long, low room, its atmosphere heavy
with tobacco-smoke, the fumes of incense, the reek of lamps, and the
odor of human perspiration. Ranged against the walls are wooden benches
for the accommodation of the European spectators, most of whom appear
distinctly ill at ease and rather white about the gills, while the native
onlookers seat themselves cross-legged on the floor. At the far end of
the room are gathered the performers: some hollow-eyed, lean-framed,
wild-looking fanatics of the true dervish stamp; others unbalanced,
half-crazy individuals such as are to be found about the mosques and
bazaars of every Moslem city; the rest perfectly normal men—butchers,
porters, scavengers, and the like—who are always willing to endure a
little pain for the sake of profit. These last are indubitably impostors;
but of the others it is hard to determine just where religious frenzy
ends and simulation begins. Music, if such it can be called, is provided
by a trio of negro drummers, who thump their barbaric instruments—_roum,
roum, roum ... roum, roum, roum ... roum, roum, roum_—until the fetid air
of the place pulses with the sound.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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