In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
Its towering heights crowded with palaces, temples, villas, and triumphal
arches, dazzlingly white under the blazing African sun, Constantine must
have presented a spectacle of surpassing beauty in Roman times. Yet
astonishingly few mementos of its former grandeur remain; for, during
the years immediately following the French occupation, the military
authorities took no interest in preserving the monuments of the city’s
colorful and hectic past, which were ruthlessly destroyed to make way
for municipal buildings in the ornate style of the Second Empire, for
huge and hideous barracks of red brick, for a whole system of streets
and parks and plazas, and for the railway. The greatest vandalism was
the destruction of the magnificent triumphal arch erected by one of the
Roman emperors; but temples, colonnades, and baths were all swept away
by the army engineers in their mania for “modern improvements.” Even
the splendid bridge, built during the reign of Constantine, which stood
intact until 1857, when two of its arches fell, instead of being restored
was battered down by artillery and replaced with a hideous structure of
iron. A curious commentary on our boasted modern civilization, is it not,
that seventy-five years of peace have destroyed wantonly what was spared
by two thousand years of warfare?
Of the public buildings, the most noteworthy is the palace built about
1830 by Ahmed Pasha, the last of the beys, which is one of the finest
examples of modern Moorish architecture in existence. In its construction
the Turks followed their customary method of tearing down other buildings
in order to obtain fine old tiles and beautiful carvings, and by looting
the Roman ruins which dot the country-side of their columns, capitals,
and marbles. Its exterior, as in the case of so many Oriental buildings,
is gloomy and forbidding, but within is a series of sun-drenched
courtyards, flagged with marble, filled with orange and lemon trees, and
surrounded by cloisters, their carven arches supported by fluted columns
in porphyry of many colors, where the bey and his concubines were wont
to pass the heat of the day. On the walls of the cloisters which border
the central patio, is a series of naïve and crudely executed paintings
of land battles and naval engagements, in which, of course, the Turks
are depicted as uniformly victorious. They are said to be the work of an
Italian shoemaker who, taken prisoner by the Barbary corsairs, painted
them as the price of his freedom. Mellowed by time, the general effect
of the pictures is not unpleasing, but it is to be hoped that upon his
release the cobbler-artist stuck to shoemaking.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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