In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
The remaining sights of Constantine which would appeal to the casual
traveler are not numerous and can be visited quite easily in a single
day. From the northwestern angle of the plateau rises the _kasbah_, or
citadel, now used as barracks and military hospital; a massive structure
dating from Roman times and preserving in its more modern portions
numerous remains of other Roman edifices. The Great Mosque, or, as it is
called by the natives, the Djamaa-el-Kebir, occupies the site of what
was probably an ancient pantheon; like other Moslem places of worship in
Algeria it is inaccessible to unbelievers. Hard by the palace, facing on
a spacious square, stands the cathedral, formerly a mosque bearing the
romantic name of Suk-er-Rezel, Market of the Gazelles, but now known as
the Church of Our Lady of the Seven Sorrows. In the Mairie, a pretentious
and highly ornate building decorated in beautiful native marbles and
containing some interesting paintings of the military operations which
ended in the capture of the city by the French, is a small and mediocre
museum, its shelves and cases crowded with the usual collection of
coins, vases, inscriptions, and fragments of sculpture. It is well worth
visiting, however, for the sake of one real gem—a superbly executed
statuette of a winged victory, twenty-three inches in height, which was
discovered by excavators beneath the _kasbah_. Some hundreds of feet
beneath the Hôtel de Paris, accessible by numerous flights of steep and
slippery stone steps, is a very remarkable grotto, one of a series of
caves and passageways which honeycomb the rock on which the city stands,
and which, in the old days, were used by the inhabitants as storehouses
and places of concealment.
The Arab town, or such part of it as has not been swept away by the march
of progress, is tucked away behind a fringe of modern buildings, which
is, perhaps, as well, for it reeks with noisome smells and possesses no
architectural merits whatsoever. Its streets are steep and tortuous,
the upper floors of the houses being built out on supports which look
like inverted steps, thus bringing them so close together that their
owners can almost shake hands from their second-story windows across
the intervening thoroughfare. Here and there, set into the masonry, one
recognizes a column, a capital, or a slab of marble looted from some
Roman building, but, generally speaking, the _quartier indigène_ is
squalid and uninteresting.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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