In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
Though not so extensive, the Moorish monuments of Tlemcen rank in
architectural merit with those of Granada, both having been built, it
should be remembered, by the Almoravide and the Almohade sultans. Of the
sixty-four mosques which existed in the city at the time of the French
conquest, a number have disappeared or fallen into decay. Of those that
remain the most important is the Great Mosque, the Djamaa-el-Kebir, which
was not the creation of a single person, but grew, like so many of the
Gothic cathedrals, during the reigns of several rulers. The greater part
of the present structure, including the magnificent minaret, was erected
by Yarmorasen, the great Berber monarch who reigned in Tlemcen in the
sixth century after the Hegira, which, as every one knows, took place in
the year 622 of the Christian era. The minaret, upward of a hundred feet
in height, is adorned with marble columns and incased in superb mosaics;
in the center of the alabaster-paved inner court stands a fountain of
Algerian onyx, where the pious perform their ablutions before going in to
prayer; and the arches of the interior, which is richly decorated in the
arabesque style, is supported by a forest of columns—seventy-two in all,
to save you counting them. The beautiful proportions of the arches and
columns, the mellow colorings of the ancient tiles, and the dim religious
light make the Djamaa-el-Kebir one of the most impressive places of
worship in the world.
Close by is the mosque of Abul Hassan, built in 1298 and now transformed
into a museum. The exterior has been materially altered by the French,
who have so covered it with modern tiles as to suggest a hotel bath-room;
but the interior, which has two series of arches resting on alabaster
columns and a ceiling which bears traces of polychromatic paintings, is
charming. The building’s greatest glory, however, is the _mihrab_, the
holy of holies, the recessed shrine which indicates the direction of
Mecca, and toward which, consequently, the worshipers turn in prayer.
Floored with glazed and lustrous tiles of great antiquity, gloriously
rich colorings and its walls decorated in stucco-work of arabesque
designs as delicate as the finest lace, and roofed with a painted and
gilt stalactite vault of amazing intricacy, it has been described as the
finest example of Mohammedan art in existence, and it very probably is.
The surpassing beauty and endless variety of the conventional patterns
which are employed in the decoration of Mohammedan places of worship is
due, it should be remembered, to the fact that the representation of
nature in any form is absolutely forbidden by the Koran, a restriction
which applies not only to depictions of the human figure, and to
animals or birds, but even to plants and foliage of all kinds. The only
exceptions to this rule are the highly conventionalized representations
of lions in the courts of the Alhambra and over the gateways of Cairo and
Jerusalem.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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