Castles -- France; Touraine (France) -- Description and travel
Only a few of the 365 rooms of Chambord are furnished; we were shown the
bedroom of the late Comte de Chambord, a ghostly apartment, it seemed to
us in the fading daylight, the bed hung with elaborate tapestries, the
work of the loyal hands of the ladies of Poitou. Miss Cassandra asked
the guide if she would not be afraid to sleep in this dismal chamber.
"No," she answered, "there are no _revenants_ here, the great people who
lived here do not walk, they had such an active life with their hunting
and fetes that they are content to rest quietly in their beds."
We passed through the council chamber of the chateau, where there are
more tapestries, these presented by the loyal inhabitants of Blois and
the Limousin districts, and here also is a quite useless throne donated
by some devoted legitimists. In the chapel, we were shown some tapestry
worked by Madame Royale, during her imprisonment in the Temple, that
daughter of Marie Antoinette who alone survived her unfortunate family
and as Duchesse d'Angouleme lived to quite an advanced age.
The fast-fading daylight made it impossible to see many of the
portraits in the great reception room; among them we noticed two
portraits of Anne of Austria, and a Van Loo of the beautiful unloved
Queen of Louis XV, Marie Leczinska. In this picture she appears so
graceful and charming that one wonders how the King could have been
insensible to her attractions; but one need never be surprised at the
vagaries of royalty, and it is not to be expected that diplomatic
alliances should be happy.
What interested the men of the party especially, was the little light
wagon in which, we were told, the owner of Chambord, the Duc de Parme,
went a hunting with that good legitimist, the Master of Cheverny.
"I am glad," said Walter, "that the noble Duke has a neighbor of the
same stripe to go a hunting with him, the grandeur of this great palace
without a friendly neighbor to come in and take a hand at cards or crack
a joke with him, would be simply appalling."
"The idea of jokes in this vast mausoleum of departed grandeur!"
exclaimed Miss Cassandra. "It would be like dancing in a cemetery. Do
ask that lively black-eyed dame how many there are in family when the
owners are at home."
"Monsieur le Duc has twenty-two children," was the reply. "He lives in
Italy, but comes here sometimes for the hunting."[B]
"And does he bring his family with him?"
"_Pas tout le monde_ at the same time, Madame, although we have enough
rooms for them all."
Laughing over this ready rejoinder, we parted from our merry cicerone
with exchanges of compliments and a clink of silver. I am quite sure
that Walter and Archie gave her the fee twice over because of her _beaux
yeux_ and her merry wit.
It is late, and I am tired after the _grande tournee_, as they call our
afternoon trip here, and Walter reminds me
"That the best of all ways
To lengthen our days
Is _not_ to steal a few hours from the night, my dear."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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