Castles -- France; Touraine (France) -- Description and travel
It is so delightful to be lodged so near the beautiful Chateau of Blois
that we can see the facade of Francis I by sunlight, twilight, and
moonlight. Built upon massive supporting walls, it dominates a natural
terrace, which rises above the valley of the Loire and the ravine of the
Arroux. No more fitting site could be found for the chateau than the
quadrilateral formed by these two streams. The wing of Francis I, with
its noble columns, Italian loggie, balustrades, attics, picturesque
chimneys, grotesque gargoyles and other rich and varied decorations,
displays all the architectural luxury of the Renaissance of which it was
in a sense the final expression. It was while gazing upon this marvelous
facade that Mr. Henry James longed for such brilliant pictures as the
figures of Francis I, Diane de Poitiers, or even of Henry III, to fill
the empty frames made by the deep recesses of the beautifully
proportioned windows. We would cheerfully omit the weak and effeminate
Henry from the novelist's group, but we would be tempted to add thereto
such interesting contemporary figures as the King of Navarre and his
heroic mother, Jeanne d'Albret, or his beautiful, faithless wife, La
Reine Margot, the Pasithee of Ronsard's verse, who, with her brilliant
eyes and flashing wit, is said to have surpassed in charm all the
members of her mother's famous "_escadron volant_." And, as Miss
Cassandra suggests, it would be amusing to see the portly widow of Henry
IV descending from one of the windows, as she is said to have done, by a
rope ladder and all the paraphernalia of a romantic elopement, although,
as it happened, she was only escaping from a prison that her son had
thought quite secure. The poor Queen had great difficulty in getting
through the window, but finally succeeded and reached the ditch of the
castle; friends were waiting near by to receive her with a coach which
bore her away to freedom at Loches or Amboise, I forget which. This
window from which Marie de Medicis is said to have escaped is in one of
the apartments of Catherine. The guide, a very talkative little woman,
told us that there is good reason to believe that the stout Queen never
performed this feat of high and lofty tumbling; but that she made her
escape from a window in the south side, and with comparative ease, as in
her day there were no high parapets such as those that now surround the
chateau on three sides. Our cicerone seemed, however, to have no doubts
about the unpleasing associations with Catherine de Medicis, and took
great pleasure in showing us her _cabinet de travail_, with the small
secret closets in the carved panels of the wall in which she is said to
have kept her poisons. These rooms are richly decorated, the gilt
insignia upon a ground of brown and green being a part of the original
frescoes. The oratory, of which Catherine certainly stood in need, is
especially handsome and elaborate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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