In Darkest Africa, Vol. 2; or, The Quest, Rescue, and Retreat of Emin, Governor of EquatoriaStanley, Henry M. (Henry Morton)
History
In Darkest Africa, Vol. 2; or, The Quest, Rescue, and Retreat of Emin, Governor of Equatoria
Stanley, Henry M. (Henry Morton)
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Emin Pasha, 1840-1892
After seeing to the distribution of corn, I proceeded across the ridge,
and descending a stiff slope, almost cliffy in its upper part, after 154
feet of a descent, came to the dark sandy shore of the Salt Lake of
Katwé, at a place where there were piles of salt-cakes lying about. The
temperature of the water was 78·4° Fahrenheit; a narrow thread of
sulphurous water indicated 84°. Its flavour was that of very strong
brine.[32] Where the sand had been scooped cut into hollow beds, and the
water of the lake had been permitted to flow in, evaporation had left a
bed of crystal salt of rocky hardness, compacted and cemented together
like coarse quartz. The appearance of these beds at a distance was like
frozen pools. When not disturbed by the salt-gatherers, the shore is
ringed around with _Ukindu_ palms, scrubby bush, reedy cane, euphorbia,
aloetic plants; and at Mkiyo, a small village inhabited by salt-workers,
there is a small grove of bananas, and a few fields of Indian corn and
Eleusine coracana. Thus, though the lake has a singularly dead and
lonely appearance, the narrow belt of verdure below the cliffy walls
which encompass it, is a relief. Immediately behind this greenness of
plants and bush, the precipitous slopes rise in a series of horizontal
beds of grey compacted deposit, whitened at various places by thin
incrustations of salt. There are also chalky-looking patches here and
there, one of which, on being examined, proved to be of stalagmite. In
one of these I found a large tusk of ivory, bones of small animals,
teeth, and shells of about the size of cockles. There were several of
these stalagmite beds around the lake.
One remarkable peculiarity of the lake was the blood tints of its water,
or of some deposit in it. On looking into the water I saw that this
deposit floated, like congealed blood, on and below the surface. A man
at my request stepped in, and at random; the water was up to his knees,
and bending down soon brought up a solid cake of coarse-grained
crystallised salt, and underneath it was a blood-red tinge. This reddish
viscous stuff gives the lake, when looked at from the crest of Katwé
ridge, a purple appearance, as though a crimson dye had been mixed with
it.
Hundreds of dead butterflies of various colours strewed the beach. There
was not a fish seen in its waters, though its border seems to be a
favourite haunt for herons, storks, pelican, egrets.
The larger Salt Lake of Katwé, sometimes called Lake of Mkiyo, from the
village of that name, is about three miles long, and ranges from half to
three-quarters of a mile in width, and about three feet deep. The
smaller lake is in a round grassy basin about two miles east, and is a
round shallow pool half-a-mile across.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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