In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83Smith, J. J.
History
In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83
Smith, J. J.
Iron Duke (Ship); Voyages and travels
June 11th.--Left Nagasaki _en route_ for the eastward, _via_ the Inland
Seas. Our way to Simoneski lay through numerous islands of so beautiful
an appearance that a writer has compared them to some of the fairest
spots in Devon. But this, though it says much, is but a poor tribute to
such enchanting loveliness.
At daylight the following morning we made the narrow channel at
Simoneski, the western entrance to the seas; and as there is always a
strong rush of water through the passage towards the ocean, we had to
steam hard against a considerable current. The town, of which I spoke in
my last chapter, has a very straggling and neat cleanly appearance.
There are no forts or other defences to indicate that not so long ago
this town offered defiance and a short resistance to a European
squadron.
The Inland Sea has four chief divisions, which now commences to open out
before us, and is reckoned to possess some of the finest scenery in the
world. I had often wished to see it for myself; but I must confess I was
unprepared, even with an imagination not liable to surprise, at a
picture of nature's own producing, for such beauty and grandeur. For
hundreds of miles, day after day, we were borne past a moving diorama of
scenery unrivalled by anything here below. On a smooth blue sea, and
under a cloudless sky, onward we sped, passing, one after another, the
most delightful islets the eye ever dwelt on, each appearing to us a
perfect paradise in itself. Further on, indicated by a mere purple haze,
appeared others, and yet others, in almost endless perspective. I should
say the islands in this sea may be numbered by thousands.
Not many years since, strangers were debarred from using this passage. I
fancy I can imagine the impressions the first Europeans must have had of
this fairy land, of such a climate, such a soil, and such delightful
glades and woodlands!
On each of the larger islands we noticed snug temples, like miniature
Swiss chalets, embowered in woods--their peculiar architecture standing
out in relief from a tangled mass of vegetation.
The channels where there are so many islands as here are necessarily
intricate and dangerous; and as it would be to court danger to continue
our course after sundown, there are several well-marked anchorages where
it is customary to bring up at night. The first of these was a sheltered
bay with twin villages at its head, which I fancifully designated
Kingsand and Cawsand--the promontory forming one arm of the bay, looking
not unlike Penlee point--greatly adding to the conceit.
June 14th.--At noon we reached Kobe, or Hiogo, and let go our anchor far
out in what appears to be an open roadstead. This town is one of the
most recent of the treaty ports--in fact it and Osaca opposite, are the
last thrown open to trade; hence we shall probably find Kobe more
_native_ and less Europeanized than are the other towns we shall visit.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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