In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83Smith, J. J.
History
In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83
Smith, J. J.
Iron Duke (Ship); Voyages and travels
September 11th.--The dreary, monotonous, unenlivening coast line of
China, with its interminable sand hills and granite peaks, once more in
sight. The landscapes of north China are, if anything, more dreary than
ever. We must however take the bad with the good. Chefoo lies before us,
and into Chefoo we are bound to go. We cannot, as yet, see any town,
because of a sort of natural breakwater of sand and rocks which
stretches almost across the harbour's mouth; but that there is an
anchorage beyond is clear, from the thousands of masts pointing
skyward. So slow was our progress into the harbour that it seemed as if
we were never going to get there at all; but eventually we dropped
anchor at about three miles from what I suppose pretends to be a town,
but which from such a distance looked more like a straggling village. We
had gone in quite far enough, though, for every revolution of the screws
discoloured the water with sand and mud, and, furthermore, I believe we
touched, for a distinct not to be mistaken vibration was clearly felt by
all hands. This part of the anchorage is much exposed to the sea; and,
in the event of a blow from the northward, we are in a position to
encounter its full fury. Chefoo, notwithstanding its uninteresting
appearance, seems to be a pretty regular port of call for men-of-war,
several of which are lying at anchor within the bar.
There must be some spots in the neighbourhood capable of cultivation,
for our bumboat is loaded with an abundance of tempting fruits--grapes
of rich bloom and large growth, apples which would do no discredit to a
West of England orchard, and peaches scarcely inferior to those v of the
Mediterranean. And how cheap everything is--eggs you can get for the
asking almost, whilst a whole fowl (prepared and cooked in a manner
which, out of charity to the Chinese culinary art, we wont pry into too
closely, but which our sailor gourmands relish nevertheless) is
obtainable for five cents! I refer, of course, to that bird which our
shipmates denominate "_dungaree chicken_." Our first impression of
Chefoo is that it is the place of all others on the station to send
emaciated ships' companies to regain their stamina.
The district has a special manufacture of silk, much prized by our
female friends at home, made from the fibres of the bamboo. Did you ever
see such a wonderful plant as that same bamboo? I could not enumerate
half the uses to which the natives of China and Japan apply its
beautiful slender golden stem. The silk, of a color resembling brown
holland, is really very good, and makes excellent summer out-door
dresses for the European ladies and girls at Chefoo. Some of the best
costumes I noticed on shore were made of this material.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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