Japan -- Foreign relations -- Korea; Korea; Korea -- Foreign relations -- Japan
Lying in the sun on a shelving rock, I had an interesting conversation
with the English Consul-General. In the course of this Mr. Cockburn
expressed the amazement of his country at what he graciously called the
“patience” of Americans in putting up so quietly with political and
social wrongs which the English had refused any longer to suffer, now
nearly a century ago. He seemed sincerely gratified at my assurance that
the feeling of the United States toward England is more cordial and
appreciative of our common good and common mission in the world than
was the case twenty-five and thirty years ago. I found myself also in
hearty agreement with his view that the treaty between Great Britain and
Japan, whether it should prove of commercial advantage to the former, or
not, was fruitful of good to the latter nation, to the Far East, and to
mankind as interested in the world’s peace.
At about four o’clock the party started on its return to Seoul. The
distance was some ten miles, most of which must be walked, by a rather
steep descent in places over barren surfaces of granite rock. But the
path at first led us still higher up the mountain until, having passed
through an inner gate, we reached the outer wall upon the other side of
the whole enclosure. For as much of the slope of Puk Han, as somewhat
more than two miles of rambling wall can embrace, constitutes this
fortified retreat of the Korean monarchy. Thus, with its stores of
provisions and implements of war, the cultivated fields, palaces, and
other official and unofficial residences inside, it was intended that Puk
Han, like its somewhat earlier colleague, the fortresses of Kang Wha,
should resist siege by any numbers and for any length of time. But from
prehistoric times to Port Arthur, and all over the earth from Sevastopol
to Daulatabad, the experiences of history have shown how vain is the
hope of the rulers of men to ward off the results of moral and political
degeneracy by walls of stone and implements of iron.
Far away on the very top of the mountain, to the left of our path, stood
a watch-tower which commanded a view of all this part of Korea. From both
of the gates in this portion of the wall, which, although they are only
a short distance apart, look toward different points of the compass,
the views are extensive and charming. To the southward one could look
down the steep mountain side, over a valley from which rose rocky but
brilliantly colored hills, bare for the most part of foliage, and through
which the silvery thread of the River Han wound its way, upon a series of
mountain ranges bounded only by the horizon. From the Western gate were
to be seen Chemulpo and its island-dotted harbor, and beyond the open sea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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