In Search of a Siberian KlondikeVanderlip, Washington Baker
History
In Search of a Siberian Klondike
Vanderlip, Washington Baker
Gold mines and mining -- Russia (Federation) -- Siberia; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
Our dinner consisted of boiled deer ribs, sticks of frozen marrow, and
half-digested moss, taken from the stomach of the deer. This last was
cooked in seal oil, and looked much like spinach. I found some
difficulty in bringing myself to eat it, but I craved vegetable food
so keenly that at last I was able to overcome my repulsion, and found
it not so bad after all. The reindeer, therefore, furnishes the Korak
with meat, clothing, shelter, and vegetable food. The dinner was
served on wooden plates, and conveyed to the mouth with fingers,
except that for the "spinach" they had spoons carved from the horn of
the mountain-sheep. The host persisted in offering me the daintiest
lumps of fat in his fingers; and I accepted them. In that far northern
latitude, we all craved fat or any kind of oil. The women did not eat
with us. The host and I sat in one of the little booths, while the
women remained outside by the fire. The children, however, could not
resist the temptation to "peek," and they lay on the ground, looking
up from below the edge of the skin partitions, like a row of
detached heads, with the eyes blinking solemnly at me.
[Illustration: Reindeer, Herders in background.]
After we had eaten, I made them all happy by sending Snevaydoff out to
the sledge for some tea, and some broken bits of sugar. The host
brought out the family treasures, the gaudy cups which I have
heretofore mentioned. The women licked the saucers, and wiped them
with moss, after which tea was served.
Strange is the effect of environment; a year previous, no inducement
could have made me use those cups after seeing them cleansed in that
fashion. Was I, after all, a savage, and civilization but a thin
veneer? I found myself at times looking at life from the standpoint of
these people. I was thinking, dreaming, and talking in my sleep in my
polyglot language. At times I would talk to myself in English, just to
enjoy the sound of it. I had with me no books, except a Bible, which
was in my valise, but the print was too fine to read, except with a
good light. Action was my only salvation. Had I been compelled to stay
in one place I should have feared for my reason.
After two or three cups, every one perspired freely, and off came one
garment after another, until the men were entirely naked, and the
women were naked to the waist. When we had imbibed ten or a dozen
cups, the kettle was replenished with hot water, and handed out to
those in the main part of the yourta. I gave each one a lump of sugar
to make him happy, and then, leaning back among the skins, lighted my
pipe, and had a long talk with my host, during the course of which I
elicited much curious information.
At bedtime, two of the smaller children were put in tiny cradles,
swung from the top of the yourta. The compartment in which I slept
held eight people that night. The lamp was left burning all night, for
the sake of its warmth. As far as I could discover, there was an utter
lack of ventilation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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