Great Britain -- History -- Henry II, 1154-1189 -- Juvenile fiction; Guilds -- Juvenile fiction; Middle Ages -- Juvenile fiction
The weaver at such a loom sat at one end on a little board, with the
heavy roller or weaver's beam on which the warp, the lengthwise thread,
was fastened in front of him. At the far end of the frame was another
roller, the warp being stretched taut between the two. As the work
progressed the web was rolled up gradually toward the weaver, and the
pattern, if there was one, lay under the warp and was rolled up on a
separate roller. Every skilled weaver had a number of simple patterns
in his head, as a knitter has, but for a tapestry picture a pattern was
drawn and colored on parchment ruled in squares, and a duplicate pattern
made without the color, showing all the arrangement of the threads and
used in "gating" as the arrangement of the warp in the beginning was
called. Every weaver had his own way of gating, and his own little
tricks of weaving. It was a craft that gave a chance for any amount
of ingenuity.
In plain, "tabby" or "taffety" weaving, the weft or woof, the crosswise
thread, went in and out exactly as in darning, and the two treadles
underneath the web, worked by the feet, lifted alternately the odd
threads and the even threads, the weaver tossing the shuttle from hand
to hand between them. At each stroke of the shuttle the swinging beam,
or batten, beat up the weft to make a close, firm, even weave. The
shuttle, made of boxwood and shaped like a little boat, held in its
hollow the "quill" or bobbin carrying the weft. When all the "yarn," as
thread for weaving was always called, was wound off, the weaver fastened
on the end of the next thread with what is even now called a "weaver's
knot." As the side of the web toward him was the wrong side of the
cloth, no knot was allowed to show on the right side.
In brocaded, figured or tapestry weaving, leashes or loops called
heddles were hung from above and lifted whatever part of the warp they
were attached to. For example, three threads out of ten in the warp
could be lifted by one group of heddles with one motion of the treadle,
the heddles being grouped or "harnessed" to make this possible. It can
be seen that in weaving by hand a tapestry with perhaps forty or fifty
figures and animals, besides flowers and trees, the most convenient
arrangement of the heddles called for brains as well as skill of hand
in the weaver who did the work. The drawboy's work was to pull each
set of cords in regular order forward and downward. These cords had to
raise a weight of about thirty-six pounds, which the boy must hold for
perhaps a third of a minute while the ground was woven. He was in a
way a part of the machine, but a part which had a brain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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