In the forbidden land : $b an account of a journey into Tibet, capture by the Tibetan lamas and soldiers, imprisonment, torture and ultimate releaseLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
In the forbidden land : $b an account of a journey into Tibet, capture by the Tibetan lamas and soldiers, imprisonment, torture and ultimate release
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
Another long dreary day had elapsed. We had used our last grain of salt;
and yet another day on nettles alone; and a third day and a fourth, on
the same diet! How sick we got of nettles! The days seemed endless as,
lying flat on a peak above our camp, I remained hour after hour scanning
with my telescope the long plateau above the Gakkon River in search of
our returning messengers. Every time I perceived men in the distance my
heart leaped, but on focussing them with my glass they turned out to be
Jogpas (bandits), or Dogpas (nomad tribes of smugglers), or travelling
Humlis or Jumlis, on their way to Gyanema and Gartok. And how many times
did we not listen and then anxiously peep through the fissures in our
fortifications when some unusual noise struck our ears! As time went on,
and they did not put in an appearance, we began to entertain doubts as
to their safety, or would they betray us and never return? Or, as was
more likely, had they been caught by the Jong Pen (the master of the
fort), and been imprisoned and tortured?
My bearer, who was somewhat of a _bon vivant_, declined to eat any more
food, as he said it was better not to eat at all than to eat the same
thing constantly. He swore he could fast for ten days, and he made up for
want of food by sleeping.
My fortified abode was comfortable enough during the morning, when the
sun shone on it, though often it got so warm that we had to abandon it in
the middle of the day, when the thermometer registered as much as 120 deg.,
122 deg., and even 124 deg.. From 1 P.M. till 10 at night a bitter wind blew from
the S.E., and seemed to get right into our bones; so cold was it that the
temperature suddenly dropped down to 60 deg., and even lower, the moment the
sun disappeared behind the mountains, and continued to fall as low as
40 deg., 34 deg. and 32 deg.; the minimum during the night. One night we had a
terrible gale and a snowstorm. Such was the force of the wind, that our
wall was blown down upon us as we slept in its shelter, and the hours we
had dedicated to rest had to be spent in repairing the damage done. On
the following morning we were gathering nettles for our meal, when we
heard the distant tinkling of fast approaching horse-bells. We quickly
put out the fires, hid our things, and hastened behind our entrenchment.
I seized my rifle; Chanden Sing loaded the Martini. A Shoka, who was too
far off to reach our fortified abode in time, screened himself behind
some rocks. In the nick of time! Half-a-dozen sepoys with matchlocks, to
which were attached red flags, slung over their shoulders, were cantering
gaily up the hillside only a few yards in front of us. They were
undoubtedly searching for me, judging by the way they looked in every
direction, but fortunately they never turned towards the castle walls
that concealed us. They were expecting, I presumed, to see a large
European tent in one of the valleys, and never even dreamt that we should
be where we were.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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