In the forbidden land : $b an account of a journey into Tibet, capture by the Tibetan lamas and soldiers, imprisonment, torture and ultimate releaseLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
In the forbidden land : $b an account of a journey into Tibet, capture by the Tibetan lamas and soldiers, imprisonment, torture and ultimate release
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
From our camping-ground we saw fifteen black tents on the hillside, and
to the E. on the lake shore there was a large Gomba or Lamasery, with a
temple and a number of mud houses. I estimated the distance between
ourselves and the Gomba at only eight miles, a cheering fact, because I
hoped to get fresh provisions there to enable us to proceed more rapidly
on our journey. We were now quite out of reach of the Gyanema sepoys, as
well as of the Barca Tarjum and the Taklakot Jong Pen, and if we could
only obtain a sufficient quantity of food during the night, and proceed
by the jungle early the next day, there would be little danger of our
being overtaken. The Shokas were, of course, again shaking with fright at
the idea of entering a Tibetan settlement, but I told them very firmly
that we must reach Tucker Gomba and village that night.
We had below us the two great lakes, and before I left this magnificent
panorama, I could not help taking a last long look at the marvellous
scene. The Devil's Lake, with its broken, precipitous shores, its rocky
islands and outstretching peninsulas, was far more enchanting to me than
the sacred lake at its side, in which, according to tradition, dwell
Mahadeva (pronounced Mahadeve) and all the other good gods. Although the
water is equally blue and limpid; although each lake has for background
the same magnificent Gangri chain, Mansarowar, the creation of Brahma,
from whom it takes its name, is not nearly so weirdly fascinating as its
neighbour. Mansarowar has no ravines rising precipitously from its
waters, in which their vivid colouring would be reflected as in a mirror;
it is almost a perfect oval, without indentations. There is a stony,
slanting plain some two miles wide between the water's edge and the hills
surrounding it, except along the ridge separating it from the Rakstal,
where its shore is slightly more rugged and precipitous.
Directly south of the lake is a chain of high peaks covered with snow,
from which several streams descend. From where we stood we could see
evident signs, as in the case of the Rakstal, that the level of the lake
must at one time have been at least thirty feet higher than it is at
present, and the slanting bed of small rounded and smooth stones, which
extends from one-and-a-half to two miles beyond the water-line, is
evidence enough that the water must once have been up to that point; I
believe that it is still gradually receding.
Round the lake there are several tumbling-down sheds in charge of Lamas,
but only one important Gomba (monastery) and a temple are to be
found--viz., at Tucker village.
I was told that a small Gomba and _serai_ in charge of Lamas stands to
the N.W. of the lake, but I cannot vouch for the accuracy of the
statement, as I did not visit it myself, and the information I received
from Tibetans regarding its position and importance was conflicting.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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