"_Omne mani padme hun_," or simply "_Mani, mani_," being repeated all the time. [Illustration: STONE WITH INSCRIPTION] The more ancient wheels have the prayers written by hand instead of printed, and are contained in a small black bag. Charms, such as rings of malachite, jade, bone, or silver, are often attached to the weight and chain by which the rotary movement is given to the wheel. These praying-machines are found in every Tibetan family, and nearly every Lama possesses one. They keep them jealously, and it is very difficult to get the real ones. I was particularly fortunate, and during my journey in Tibet I was able to purchase as many as twelve, two of which were extremely old. [Illustration: PRAYER-WHEELS--ANCIENT AND MODERN. SHOWING ROLLS OF PRAYERS TO GO INSIDE] Besides the rosary, which the Lamas always use in a similar way to the Roman Catholics, they have a brass instrument which they twist between the palms of their hands while saying prayers, and this is used exclusively by Lamas. It is from 21/2 to 3 inches in length, and is rounded so as to be easily held in the hollow of the two hands. In Tibet, as in other Buddhist countries, there are nunneries besides lamaseries. The nuns, most unattractive in themselves, shave their heads and practise witchcraft and magic, just as the Lamas do. They are looked down upon by the masses. In some of these nunneries strict _clausura_ is enforced, but in most of them the Lamas are allowed free access, with the usual result, that the nuns become the concubines of the Lamas. Even apart from this, the women of the nunneries are quite as immoral as their brethren of the lamaseries, and at their best they are but a low type of humanity. The Lamas who, at certain periods of the year, are allowed an unusual amount of freedom with women, are those who practise the art of making musical instruments and eating-vessels out of human bones. The skull is used for making drinking-cups, _tsamba_ bowls, and single and double drums, and the humerus, femur, and tibia bones are turned into trumpets and pipes. These particular Lamas are said to relish human blood, which they drink out of the cups made from men's skulls. [Illustration: STONE WITH INSCRIPTION] CHAPTER XLVIII Illnesses and remedies--Curious theories about fever--Evil spirits--Blacksmith and dentist--Exorcisms--Surgical operations--Massage and cupping--Incurable illnesses--Deformities--Deafness--Fits and insanity--Melancholia--Suicides.