To be taken for brigands was a novel experience for us, and the warlike array was in strange contrast to the terrified expressions on the faces of those who stood there armed. In fact, when Chanden Sing and I walked forward and encouraged them to sheathe their steels and put their matchlocks by, they readily followed our advice, and brought out rugs for us to sit upon. Having overcome their fright, they were now most anxious to be pleasant. "_Kiula gunge gozai deva labodu!_" ("You have nice clothes!") I began the conversation, attempting flattery, to put the chieftain at his ease. "_Lasso, leh!_" ( "Yes, sir") answered the Tibetan, apparently astonished, and looking at his own attire with an air of comical pride. His answer was sufficient to show me that the man considered me his superior, the affirmative in Tibetan to an equal or inferior being the mere word _lasso_ without the _leh_. [Illustration: WOMAN CARRYING CHILD IN BASKET] "_Kiula tuku taka zando?_" ("How many children have you?") I rejoined. "_Ni_." ("Two.") "_Chuwen bogpe, tsamba, chou won[)i]?_" ("Will you sell me flour or _tsamba?_") "_Middu_--have not got any," he replied, making several quick semicircular movements with the up-turned palm of his right hand. This is a most characteristic action of the Tibetan, and nearly invariably accompanies the word "No," instead of a movement of the head, as with us. "_Keran ga naddoung?_" ("Where are you going?") he asked me eagerly. "_Nhgarang ne Koroun!_" ("I am a pilgrim!") "_Lungba quorghen neh jelghen_." ("I go looking at sacred places.") "_Gopria zaldo. Chakzal wortzie. Tsamba middu. Bogpe middu, guram middu, die middu, kassur middu._" ("I am very poor. Please hear me. I have no _tsamba_, no flour, no sweet paste, no rice, no dried fruit.") This, of course, I knew to be untrue, so I calmly said that I would remain seated where I was until food was sold to me, and at the same time produced one or two silver coins, the display of which to the covetous eyes of the Tibetans was always the means of hastening the transaction of business. In small handfuls, after each of which the Tibetans swore that they had not another atom to sell, I managed, with somewhat of a trial to my patience, to purchase some twenty pounds of food. The moment the money was handed over they had a quarrel among themselves about it, and almost came to blows, greed and avarice being the most marked characteristic of the Tibetans. No Tibetan of any rank is ashamed to beg in the most abject manner for the smallest silver coin, and when he sells and is paid, he always implores for another coin, to be thrown into the bargain. [22] All bearings given are magnetic. CHAPTER LII What the men were like--Their timidity--Leather work--Metal work--Blades and swords--Filigree--Saddles and harness--Pack saddles.