Albert, Lake (Congo and Uganda); Nile River; Sudan -- Description and travel
The country was a vast flat of grass land interspersed with small
villages and patches of sweet potatoes. These were very inferior, owing
to the want of drainage. For about two miles we continued on the banks
of the Kafoor River. The women who carried the luggage were straggling
in disorder, and my few men were much scattered in their endeavors to
collect them. We approached a considerable village; but just as we were
nearing it, out rushed about six hundred men with lances and shields,
screaming and yelling like so many demons. For the moment I thought it
was an attack, but almost immediately I noticed that women and children
were mingled with the men. My men had not taken so cool a view of the
excited throng that was now approaching us at full speed, brandishing
their spears, and engaging with each other in mock combat. "There's a
fight! there's a fight!" my men exclaimed; "we are attacked! fire at
them, Ilawaga." However, in a few seconds I persuaded them that it was a
mere parade, and that there was no danger.
With a rush like a cloud of locusts the natives closed around us,
dancing, gesticulating, and yelling before my ox, feigning to attack us
with spears and shields, then engaging in sham fights with each other,
and behaving like so many madmen. A very tall chief accompanied them;
and one of their men was suddenly knocked down and attacked by the crowd
with sticks and lances, and lay on the ground covered with blood.
What his offence had been I did not hear. The entire crowd were most
grotesquely got up, being dressed in either leopard or white monkey
skins, with cows' tails strapped on behind and antelopes' horns fitted
upon their heads, while their chins were ornamented with false beards
made of the bushy ends of cows' tails sewed together. Altogether I never
saw a more unearthly set of creatures; they were perfect illustrations
of my childish ideas of devils-horns, tails, and all, excepting the
hoofs. They were our escort, furnished by Kamrasi to accompany us to the
lake! Fortunately for all parties, the Turks were not with us on that
occasion, or the Satanic escort would certainly have been received with
a volley when they so rashly advanced to compliment us by their absurd
performances.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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