In the Land of Cave and Cliff DwellersSchwatka, Frederick
History
In the Land of Cave and Cliff Dwellers
Schwatka, Frederick
Chihuahua (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Sonora (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Tarahumara Indians
That evening we camped in the valley of the Guigochic, on another
beautiful mountain stream, where a little park of an acre or two gave
our mules some sweet alpine grasses, which warranted us in believing
that half the morning would not be passed in chasing over the hills to
find stray mules, as is so often the case in Mexico when these beasts
are turned loose to search for their food. We were all thoroughly tired
with our first day's ride on mule-back, but nevertheless turned in to
help the cook, as we realized that we wanted something to eat that
night. The tent was pitched between two magnificent pines of enormous
size, and I slept to the music of the wind in their branches. We
left our camp by the light of the camp fire next morning and started
over the crest of one of the steepest mountains overlooking our
camp. Halfway up the steep trail we passed two graves of stone heaps
surmounted by rough wooden crosses. At this spot a man and his wife
had been killed by the Apaches a few years ago. These same Apaches
had penetrated too far into Tarahumari land, and after a disastrous
encounter with the latter were fleeing themselves, when they met the
defenseless Mexican and his wife and killed them. This was the farthest
point west where a white person had been killed by Apache Indians in
this part of Chihuahua. After climbing this hill of 1500 or 1600 feet
our trail still led upward, the mountains growing steeper and steeper.
When we reached the top of one peak we would immediately begin the
zigzag descent, then climb up another and down again. Sometimes the
trail wound over a bald, rocky peak, where steps by long years of use
had been worn deep in the soft rock; and into these little places the
mules would carefully place their feet, there really being no other
foothold for them. Again there would be a chain of gigantic stairs
leading down some steep mountain side, where one could look hundreds of
feet, and see tall trees that from such an elevation resembled small
shrubs. The nimble and sure-footed animals would place all four feet
together and jump down from one step to another, oftentimes more than
their own height, so that one felt sure of being sent flying over the
cliff, Again, the trail would be over the loose, rolling stones, and
the little animals would fairly slide down these dangerous places.
By noon we reached the quaint little civilized pueblo of Tarahumari
Indians named Naqueachic, they living in rude log houses instead of
caves or cliff dwellings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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