In the Land of Cave and Cliff DwellersSchwatka, Frederick
History
In the Land of Cave and Cliff Dwellers
Schwatka, Frederick
Chihuahua (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Sonora (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Tarahumara Indians
Early one morning we could hear wild turkeys calling from one cliff to
the other, but as these were over a thousand feet higher and steeper
than the leaning-tower of Pisa, I suddenly lost all the wild turkey
zeal I had brought along with me for the trip. Then, again, if a
commander leaves his pack train just as they are getting away, he will
surely find a delay of an hour or two on his hands, for which it would
take a dozen turkeys to make amends. There is a plentiful supply of
game in the Mexican sierras, however, for any sportsman who wishes to
devote his attention directly to that pastime, as shown by the big
scores the natives make when they go on a hunting trip.
[Illustration: AN OCCUPIED CAVE DWELLING]
Early next morning we made a start from our camp on the cañon's side,
by the light of the pitch-pine torches, and climbed over and out of
the deep gorge into a more open country, where the sunlight could
penetrate. Here the trail was of velvety softness, and we surprised a
number of cave-dwelling Indians sitting and standing about their homes
among the big bowlders. The only garments they had on were ragged
breechcloths of cotton, but some had the extra adornment of a strip
of red cloth about their shocky black hair. The air was intensely
cold, so much so that we were wrapped in our heaviest coats, but
these savages apparently did not feel the cold, and if they shivered
at all it was probably at the sight of us--for their fear was quite
evident--and it was plain they longed to beat a retreat to their huge
rocky homes; but they stood it out till we passed, and then in an
instant they vanished.
[Illustration: HOME OF CAVE DWELLER.]
Before this day's march was ended we passed through a little Tarahumari
mountain town called Churo. It was in a small circular valley, and
on all sides were the steep, high peaks of the mountains. Here the
Indians had tried to raise a few apples, but the trees were gnarled and
twisted, and the apples not much larger than those of wild crab trees,
although much sweeter to the taste. Of course there was no store of any
kind in the little settlement, and if Mexicans, passing through the
place, wished to obtain anything from the Indians, their method was
to take it, placing whatever they considered its equivalent in silver
before the Indian, and leaving it for the latter to accept. If asked to
sell any of their produce or set a price on it, the Indians stolidly
refuse, even though the price may be two or three times greater than
they could possibly obtain at the nearest Mexican mining town. They
know nothing of the value of gold, and paper money they utterly refuse;
silver is the only money they will take even in this reluctant fashion.
[Illustration: TARAHUMARI TOWN OF CHURO.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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