In the Land of Cave and Cliff DwellersSchwatka, Frederick
History
In the Land of Cave and Cliff Dwellers
Schwatka, Frederick
Chihuahua (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Sonora (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Tarahumara Indians
The Grand Barranca of the Urique is one of the most massive pieces
of nature's architecture that the world affords. It is quite similar
in some respects to the Grand Cañon of the Colorado, and this is the
nearest to which I can compare it in the United States. The latter,
grand as the scenery undoubtedly is, soon tires by its monotonous
aspect of perpendicular walls in traveling any distance, while the
Grand Barranca could be followed as far as it deserves the name of
"grand" and every view and every vista would have some startling and
attractive change to please the eye. It is a "cross" between the Grand
Cañon of the Colorado and the Yosemite Valley--if we can imagine
such scenery after seeing both. Were the Urique River navigable,
fortunes could easily be made by transportation lines carrying
tourists to and fro, provided even only one terminus connected with
some well-established line of travel. But unfortunately it is not
navigable, no amount of money could make it so, and all tourists or
travelers who are afraid of a little work or roughing it will miss one
of the most magnificent panoramas. It is simply impossible to crowd
into a pen-and-ink sketch or a photograph any adequate views of this
stupendous mountain scenery. It is rather a field for an artist, who
will put the product of his palette and brush on heroic-sized canvas,
and make one of the masterpieces of the world. The heart of the Andes
or the crests of the Himalayas contain no more sublime scenery than the
wild, almost unknown fastnesses of the Sierra Madres of Mexico.
[Illustration: A VIEW THROUGH ROCK OPENING ACROSS THE GRAND BARRANCA OF
THE URIQUE.]
From the cliffs we were on, among the pines and cedars, we could look
far down into the valley of the Urique with our field glasses and see
the great pitahaya cactus, a product of the tropical climes. In between
were the oaks and other products of temperate climates, showing us in a
huge panorama nearly all the plant life from the equator to the poles.
We sat on the bold, beetling cliffs, and could drink ice water from
the clear mountain springs that threw themselves in silvery cascades
below, and view the river far down in the valley, a perpendicular mile
below us, the waters of which were so warm that we knew we could bathe
in them with comfort. Away off across the great cañon were lights, as
evening fell, beaming from the caves of the cliff dwellers on the
perpendicular side of the mountain. Truly it was a strange, wild sight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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