In the Land of Cave and Cliff DwellersSchwatka, Frederick
History
In the Land of Cave and Cliff Dwellers
Schwatka, Frederick
Chihuahua (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Sonora (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Tarahumara Indians
One of the lights that was "raised," as the sailors would say, in
the evening, was in what seemed to be a perpendicular cliff on the
opposite side of the mighty barranca, as near as we could make out in
the gloom of the falling night. Its position was located, and, surely
enough, on the next day our conjectures were verified, for we could
see a few dim dottings showing caves, while to the main one led up a
steep talus of _débris_ that tapered to a point just in front of the
entrance. Strangest of all, but a little way down the side of this very
steep talus, so very steep that one would have had much difficulty in
ascending unless there were brush to assist in climbing, we could
easily make out, with the help of our glasses, that corn had been
planted by these strange people. It seemed as if the tops of the dwarf
plants were just up to the roots of the next row of corn above them, if
they can really be said to have been planted in rows at all.
[Illustration: INTERIOR OF A CLIFF DWELLER'S HOME, SEVENTY-FIVE FEET
ABOVE THE WATER.]
Much as I would have liked to visit the place, the condition of my
mules and the state of my provisions made it clearly out of the
question; moreover, I was informed that better chances to see cliff
dwellers would present themselves before long, which statement,
fortunately, was soon verified. Not far from Camp Diaz was a place
where we could have tied our braided horsehair lariats together and let
a person down one hundred to two hundred feet into the tops of some
tall pine trees, and from there gain the first incline, which, though
dizzily steep, I think would have led, by a little Alpine engineering,
into the bottom of the big barranca four or five thousand feet below,
and thence an ascent could be made to the caves of the cliff dwellers.
But there were other and more potent considerations, which I have
given, that prevented our attempting this acrobatic performance with
the cliffs and crags as spectators. We might say that we were now out
of the land of the living cave dwellers and in the land of the living
cliff dwellers, although the latter live in caves in the cliffs. But
I make the distinction between the two, of caves on the level of the
ground in the valleys or the sides of mountains, and the caves in
cliffs or walls. The latter are reached by notched sticks used as
ladders, or, as I saw in a few cases, by natural steps in the strata
of alternate hard and soft rock, and up which nothing but a monkey or
a Sierra Madre cliff dweller could ascend. Many of these cliff houses
in the caves and great indentations are one hundred to two hundred
feet above the water of some mountain stream, over which they hang
like swallows' nests. Truly they are a most wonderful and interesting
people, well worth a large volume or two to describe all that is
singular and different in them from other people, savage or civilized.
[Illustration: IN THE LAND OF THE LIVING CLIFF DWELLERS.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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