In the Land of Cave and Cliff DwellersSchwatka, Frederick
History
In the Land of Cave and Cliff Dwellers
Schwatka, Frederick
Chihuahua (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Sonora (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Tarahumara Indians
One of the most distinguishing characteristics of the Sierra Madre
range, and one that will attract widespread admiration in the near
future when this country is better known, is its wonderful rock
sculpture. I do not think I exaggerate in saying that I passed
hundreds of isolated sculptured rocks in one day. All sketches fail
to give an idea of these beautiful formations. They must be seen to
afford a conception of their beauty and grotesqueness. Undoubtedly
they outrank all other ranges of North America and, as far as I can
learn, of the whole world. Even the Garden of the Gods in Colorado
is flat in comparison with some of the many miles of glorious rock
formations in these grand old mountains. The trail from Camp Diaz to
our fifth camp in the Arroyo de los Angelitos along the western side
of the Grand Barranca of the Urique, was as picturesque as the most
poetical imagination could conceive. The trail wound up and down the
steep arroyos and along the edge of the high cliffs, giving views of
unsurpassed beauty and grandeur. That night we slept for the last time
under the somber pines and listened to the whip-poor-wills, for the
next night we had descended seven thousand feet, and were among the
oranges and palms, the paroquets and humming birds.
CHAPTER VIII.
IN SOUTHWESTERN CHIHUAHUA--DOWN THE URIQUE BARRANCA--FROM PINE TO
PALM--URIQUE AND ITS MINES.
As this was to be a most important day our small party on the crest of
one of the high sierras was astir earlier than usual. Our camp had been
made in a little glen between two peaks, alongside one of the numerous
clear, cold streams that wind in and about through all these mountains,
and furnish the loveliest and most picturesque spots imaginable for
camping. Francisco, my chief packer, a bright, good-natured Mexican,
was off long before sunrise, scouring the ridges and the gulches for
the mules, as these animals often wander miles away at night, and in
the morning all the available people in camp are turned out to look
for them. This search sometimes wears well into the day before these
frisky beasts are brought in; then some stray human member of the party
has to be found, and when all this is accomplished it is nearly time
to turn out the mules for another feed. On this particular morning
fortune favored us, however, and soon our dejected-looking beasts were
tied in line with the lariats, while we sat on the ground a short
distance from them, each with a tin plate in our laps and a tin cupful
of coffee in our hands. The night before an Indian had arrived at our
camp, sent out from Urique by our Mexican friend, with roasted chickens
and fresh eggs. The chickens had vanished on the evening of their
arrival, but the eggs furnished us a royal breakfast with the usual
bill of fare, bacon and coffee. An early morning in the Sierra Madres,
even in midsummer, will make the teeth chatter. The only comfort one
can get, after piling on heavy coats, is to pass the time in revolving
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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