In the Land of Cave and Cliff DwellersSchwatka, Frederick
History
In the Land of Cave and Cliff Dwellers
Schwatka, Frederick
Chihuahua (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Sonora (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Tarahumara Indians
After bidding adieu to our hospitable host and the many friends at
the great hacienda, we started quite late in the afternoon to ride
about eight or nine miles up the Batopilas River to a station of
the Batopilas Mining Company called the Potrero. On either side the
Batopilas lifts its banks from four to five and even to six thousand
feet above the river bed, making a wonderfully beautiful panorama of
rugged mountain scenery as you wind along, sometimes climbing up a
few hundred feet and then descending to the water's edge to cross at
some favorable ford. For the cañon through its entire length is very
narrow, and in some places there is only room for the rushing river
with the trail hugging the banks or finding a foothold for the mules
on the steep, broken mountain side. I hardly know which looks the more
impressive, to stand upon the crest of a high cañon or to wind through
its depths and look up at its beetling sides, which seem to cleave
the clouds. Whatever be the point of view, from top or bottom, with
the usual discontent of human beings in all things, the observer will
always wish he were at the other place, from which, as he imagines,
something better could be seen.
At the Potrero I found a good, substantial log house, built and
maintained by the Batopilas Company, and used by them as a shelter for
members of their pack trains, instead of depending on the sky for a
covering. One end of the house was divided off, where grain was stored
for all the animals. There was also a storeroom for provisions of
various kinds, thus saving much packing over the rough mountain trail.
These houses, I learned, had been built about every thirty-five miles
along the trail, and at each a trusty Indian lived to care for them.
They were a great comfort, and seemed even luxurious after a hard
all-day ride on the rough trail. At each was a large corral or pen,
into which the mules were turned for their feed, and this too was a
saving of labor and time to the packers, and allowed one to make
a much earlier start, as well as to omit the long noon camp of the
Mexicans. In each of the houses was an immense fireplace, which, on the
arrival of the party, was piled with pitch-pine, and a most welcome
blaze and warmth soon thawed out the coldest.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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