In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
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In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
Most of the kanaats are full of fish: where they come from is a puzzle,
as the water is lost in the ground at one end and rises subterraneously
at the other. I believe it has been shown by Darwin that fish-spawn is
carried on the feet of frogs: this at times accounts for it. The larger
kanaat fish are not very nice, having a sodden muddy taste—they are like
tench; but the smaller ones, when fried, resemble much the “Friture de
la Seine” sold at the restaurants at Asnières. We often, when marching,
amused ourselves by obtaining a good friture from the openings of the
kanaats in the villages, in rather an unsportsmanlike manner. Cocculus
Indicus (some ten beans) was pounded and mixed with dough, and cast down
one of the wells; in an hour, at least a half-bushel of fish were always
caught. The fish poison imparted no poisonous effects to the flesh of the
fish, probably because so small a portion was taken. The fish, if allowed
to remain in the water, generally recovered; the large ones always did.
This mode of getting a dish of fish would have been hardly excusable; but
in a country where the only food on the road is fowls or eggs, a change
is of great importance. These kanaat-fish will not take bait as a rule,
though I have known them to be voracious and easily taken by paste.
The ruined and dry kanaats are much more numerous than those in working
order, and form a secure asylum for jackals and porcupines. Three very
good bull-terriers I had, once went down a kanaat near Shiraz after a
porcupine; two were badly wounded from the quills, and the third, a
very old and decrepit dog, was lost, probably drowned. I fancy from
their muzzles that they must have killed the beast, but the dogs did not
recover from the effects of the quill wounds for a fortnight; and one
had a piece of quill lodged in her thigh that I did not detect till she
showed it me and almost asked me to extract it a month after. In the
unsuccessful search we made for the decrepit dog in the kanaat, we nearly
came to grief ourselves, for as I was creeping along with a lantern in
my hand, up to my knees in mud and water, a quantity of earth and stones
fell from the roof, separating me from my man who followed. I rushed for
the well in front, and was drawn out by servants who were awaiting me,
while my man made for the one we had descended by; we were equally glad
to see each other. It was the first time I had been in a kanaat—I mean it
to be the last.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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