In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
Generally, however, a few kerans will secure two rooms, and as a rule
stratagems obtain the accommodation that force fails to secure. I thought
myself, when a married man, that it was better to pay a small fee when
I found, as I did at times, every room occupied and no other place to
go to. At the same time it is a crying shame that the employés of _our_
Persian Telegraph Department, _who always travel on business_, should
not be enabled to go to the post-houses _as a right_, and that they are
at times compelled to argue in the rain, or engage in serious rows, when
they find that there is absolutely no other means of getting shelter for
themselves and families. This is particularly hard, too, on the signaller
and subordinate member, who, with few muleteers and perhaps two servants,
finds it more difficult to secure a place to put his head in than the
superior officer, who has a regiment of servants and muleteers, and can
consequently overawe opposition, and be too strong to provoke a row.
At times one _must_ have recourse to stratagem. At Dehbeed, the
loneliest and coldest station in Persia, there is no village, only a
post-house and caravanserai, the latter quite in ruins; these, with the
telegraph-office, form all the shelter in winter, in summer-time there
are a few black tents. One bitter winter’s day I arrived at Dehbeed,
marching, and proceeded to the post-house. This I found full of irregular
horsemen, some twenty in each bottom room, while their master, a Khan,
engaged in collecting taxes, occupied the top room. I, supposing these
men were servants, asked them to vacate one room; they declined, and told
me to get out of the place, and not on any account to wake the Khan.
What was I to do? Dehbeed is twenty-four miles from any village, the
caravanserai in ruins, and the greater part of the telegraph-office had
_fallen in_ from heavy snow. The unfortunate sergeant in charge had
reported to the superintendent, Mr. W⸺, the state of his office, and on
asking how he was to keep the instrument dry with no roof, had been told
“to sit on it.” He and his family were at a loss for room, and there was
no other shelter of any kind, and snow to any amount, temperature awful,
and three in the afternoon. The only thing was to shake down in the
stable. I had no _right_ in the post-house as I was _marching_, and not
riding, post, nor had this Khan, for the same reason.
Programme:—to attempt to get a room by begging and trusting to his
politeness; if that fails, a ruse. I shout violently, and am threatened
by the rough horsemen.
At last I wake the Khan, and a message is sent down to know what I want.
I reply that a room is all I need, and will he give me one of the three
he occupies?
I am invited to a cup of tea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account