In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
As jewellers these people attain great proficiency. Any really difficult
work was always brought by the native gold or silver smiths of Ispahan to
be finished by an Armenian of Julfa, one Setrak. The trade of watchmaker,
or rather watchmender, is almost monopolised in Persia by Armenians; and
my former dispenser was a very good drug-compounder, having received his
instruction when a convict in India, serving his time after committing a
burglary with violence.
The cemetery lies on a bare and stony plain, under a lofty hill called
the Kūh Sufi. When Ispahan was the capital this plain was all under
cultivation by irrigation, the remains of the canals being yet visible:
here lie the inhabitants of Julfa, and also a few Europeans. Each ancient
grave is marked by a huge block of stone of a cube form, the upper face
being, however, generally larger than the under one. Some are nine feet
long, a yard high, and two feet wide. Many of the stones have Dutch,
Latin, and French inscriptions. One of these latter is the well-known
one of the watchmaker to Shah Abbas the Great. “Cy gît Rodolfe” is the
inscription it bears; and here lies Rodolphe, who was a great favourite
of the king, Abbas the Great. He was a youth of great beauty, and the
king was much attached to him. Having killed a Mahommedan after being
struck by the latter, he was offered the usual choice of Islam or death.
He preferred the latter; and though the king is said to have given him
ample time for reflection, and to have promised him rank and wealth if
he would apostatise, preferring death to dishonour, he was executed, and
interred beneath this stone. It is very difficult to get at the exact
details of this story, as there are many versions. It is told first by
Chardin or Tavernier. Just at the entrance to the burial-ground, by
crossing a ditch, over a bridge _composed of old tombstones_, one comes
to the Kaweh-Khana of the Armenians, a mud building of two stories. Here
in wet weather the funerals halt, and here on their return the mourners
stay to partake of wine and arrack. All through Persia the habit of
utilising tombstones for building bridges occurs, and is not confined
to the Armenians. Ispahan, which is surrounded by huge cemeteries and
intersected by many watercourses, presents many instances of these
tombstone bridges.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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