In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
A high wall bounds the Char Bagh on either side; at intervals are
edifices pierced by gates of from three to four stories, of no
architectural pretensions; they are of brick, ornamented with barbarous
designs on plaster in flaring colours, which time has happily toned
down; these gates lead to what were once lovely fruit gardens, now mere
enclosures sown with grain, grass, etc. The Char Bagh is some thirty
yards or more wide: about half-way up on the right-hand side is the
Mehdresseh, or college, the tiled dome of which, now fast decaying, is
a very ornamental object for miles. The dome is surmounted by a golden
ornament which is stated to be solid and of pure metal; this, I fancy,
is very doubtful. The college is entered by a high gateway, and here are
the celebrated silver doors—of the genuineness of these there can be no
doubt; the centre plates are very handsomely made, and have been heavily
gilt; the plates are not, however, very thick, and the _substance_ of the
doors is wood under thin silver. The gateway, which is in bad repair,
contains nothing of interest, and is blocked up by fruit-stalls and
pipe-sellers. A rough kind of orchard and a tank occupy the courtyard, a
few pomegranates and roses being the principal shrubs, though there are
some large trees. Several halls for instruction are seen on either side;
these, like the mosque beneath the dome, are lined and roofed with one
sheet of perfect tile-work, green, black, and yellow on a white ground;
the whole interior of the college, too, is tiled. Taken separately, there
is nothing particular about these tiles, but the _tout ensemble_ is grand
and cool in the extreme.
Of course we were not permitted to enter the mosque, as there were many
idlers about, but a good view is got from the entrances and from the
windows below the dome from the roof. The only furniture is the “mambar,”
or pulpit. The floor is covered with coarse matting, or borio, which is
made only in Ispahan; another kind of matting, which is more expensive,
is in use throughout Persia, called hassir; in the manufacture of this
thread is used. The borio is of reedy grass alone, strong, clean, and
inexpensive. Contrary to the hassir, which is made in strips, the borio
is in one piece, and here we saw pieces twenty yards by ten.
Thus there is nothing in the Persian mosque to distract the mind from the
prayers, the exhortation, or religious meditation, though the coolness
and dim religious gloom of the lofty halls rather incline one to sleep;
in fact, being the hot part of the day, we saw many men curled up in
sleep covered with their camels’ hair abbahs, or cloaks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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