In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
During the very hot weather it was my habit while in Shiraz to stay in
the garden of “Resht-i-Behesht” (glory of heaven), coming or sending
into town to inquire if my services were required and to attend to
my dispensary. In this garden there was a building with three large
windowless rooms, but having many doors and air-holes; these, when
carpeted and the doors covered with “chicks,” or fly blinds, were very
comfortable indeed. I slept on the roof, which was free from mosquitoes,
and lounged about the garden, which was very large, sitting and smoking
beside the streams, which were numerous, or by the side of the gurgling
“shitūr gūlū,” or “camel’s throat.”
The garden was _all_ shade, and, in addition to the building, had two
large brick platforms ten yards by ten, for day sleeping—one being shady
in the morning, the other in the afternoon.
The shitūr gūlū was appropriately named, for it was a long channel
constructed to cause a gurgling noise—camels have a habit of “gurgling.”
The stream irrigating the garden, which made a refreshing sound of
running waters, was widened, and at the edge was a hole some five feet
deep and two in diameter; at its bottom it branched off into a tunnel
of some four yards at a right angle; it then ascended at right angles,
opening into the bottom of a channel a _little lower_ in level than the
first one; this it supplied, and the air drawn in at the one hole and
ascending at the other with the rush of water made a gurgling noise. The
gardener’s boy used for a present of a few coppers to allow himself to be
sucked down the one hole, scramble along the earthen tunnel and appear at
the further opening. The tame bear kept by the gardener nearly lost his
life by jumping into the water (to avoid my dogs who pursued him), and
getting sucked down by the “shitūr gūlū.”
One day I was sitting with a young telegraph clerk of the cable
department, Mr. P⸺, recently arrived from England, and on a pleasure trip
(on leave) to Shiraz. As he knew nobody, I put him up. This youth had
a very high idea of the dignity of the Englishman, and looked on the
Persians as “_niggers_.” While we were sitting in chairs on one of the
brick platforms reading the newly-arrived _Times_, the prince, his Royal
Highness Zil-es-Sultan, entered the garden with two attendants only; he
had on a blue satin coat with gold and coloured embroidery, a pink tie,
and white duck trousers.
He was very polite, and of course I rose to receive him, but Mr. P⸺
remained in his chair reading his _Times_, and declined to take any
notice. The prince, astonished at being treated in so cavalier a fashion,
asked who he was. I told him.
“Ah,” he said, “he is very young,” and made no further remark to him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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