In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
The prince enters, followed by the bearer of the kalāat. We all stand up,
the royal firman or order is read by the Muschir. The kalāat, a Cashmere
shawl-coat worth some eighty pounds, and trimmed with rich furs, having
a string of big pearls and a bored but uncut emerald attached to the top
button, is put on by the prince amid acclamations, being handed to him
by the bearer. Then a jewelled wand or rod of office some four feet long
is handed by the Muschir to the Kawam, or mayor of Shiraz; he bows, more
acclamations—this is his kalāat. Then the star (having a centre enamelled
on gold of the Lion and Sun) is affixed to the breasts of the hakim-bashi
and myself; and now we all rush for our horses, and the mob rush for the
flower-vases, which are mostly smashed in the struggle.
We return to the town in procession as we came. On nearing the bridge,
the Jews, as is customary, behead a little ox at the feet of the prince,
and their chief man runs with the bleeding head by the prince’s side till
driven off by the farrashes or stick-men; then glass jars of sweetmeats
were smashed by the tradesmen under the feet of the royal horse, and
amidst shouts, dust, and the reports of the cannon, we enter the town,
and I, popping my star in my pocket, canter off to my own house. I have
never worn it since, but I could not refuse it, as it was meant in
kindness, and I did not wish to offend.
CHAPTER XXIV.
I FALL INTO THE HANDS OF BRIGANDS.
A call to a patient—Start on post-horses—No horses—I carry
a lantern—The Bakhtiaris—Fall among thieves—They strip
me—And march me off—Mode of disguise of thieves—Attacked
by footmen—Division of spoils—Fate of a priest—Valuing my
kit—Ignorance of my captors—A welcome sight—My escape—I get
a horse—Reach Yezdikhast—Old women get thorns out of my
feet—Want of hospitality of head-man of Yezdikhast—Arrive at
Kūmishah—Kindness of a postmaster—More robbers—Avoid them—Am
repaid for my lost kit—Fate of my robbers.
The roads are not safe, and at night are dangerous; but with a man ill
at the one end of the division, two hundred and fifty miles off, and the
doctor at the other, the only thing for the doctor to do is to go to his
patient as fast as possible.
Had I been going to march, I should have applied to the Persian
authorities for a strong guard, and it would have been provided, but in
posting this is impossible. It was the height of the famine time; in
place of six or eight horses in each post-house, all well up to their
work, two or three was the maximum, and these mere living skeletons,
and I knew that at some stages _all had died_. I had never been looted,
and, trusting to my luck, I sent for horses; but I felt that looting was
likely. I took no gold watch, but only an aluminium one, and as little
money as possible. Beyond my clothes I had nothing valuable save a case
of instruments belonging to Government, that I required at Ispahan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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