In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
At about six A.M. we got to Moorghāb. Here we had to feed the horses,
which caused a delay of an hour and a half, and it was eleven before we
reached Dehbeed, having done very badly thirty farsakhs in twenty-three
hours. These two severe stages on famished animals had destroyed all
chance of a quick journey. We had walked the greater part of the last
stage, which, with the one we had done before it, are two of the longest
in this part of Persia, being each a good twenty-seven miles, though
called six farsakhs. From Dehbeed we cantered over an undulating plain to
Khonakhora; the going was good, but the poor beasts constantly fell from
weakness, and I could not spare them. Again at Khonakhora there were no
horses, and I had to stop two hours to rest the old ones, not getting to
Sūrmeh till two hours after midnight, and having to walk and drive the
wretched beasts the greater part of the way. Here my man was unable to
go any further, the walking of the last stage had been too much for him:
there was nothing for it but to leave him to come on as he pleased, and
that thoroughly suited him.
At dawn I reached Abadeh, the parting with the servant and consequent
wrangle having taken up nearly an hour. I hardly knew the place;
generally the approach to Abadeh is through smiling gardens and
vineyards, and heavy crops are grown in the neighbourhood; now nothing.
The people besieged me in the chupperkhana for money. I was able to
get two broken-down horses; my own fell seven times in the first hour
from weakness, and the distance to Shūrgistan—over, happily, a good and
level road—is six farsakhs, a good twenty-four miles; it was two in the
afternoon before I could leave Shūrgistan, and, as usual, there were no
horses.
I was told at this place that the road was very dangerous, but confident
in my being a European, and being also armed, I did not think there was
much to fear. We crawled into Yezdikhast over an undulating fairly good
road at sunset, the horses both lying down on entering the courtyard;
they had come the thirteen farsakhs in twelve hours, but were so weak
that I doubted being able to start before morning, but the information I
had at Abadeh by wire made me desirous of pushing on; my patient’s state
was critical, and at eleven P.M., finding that the horses could stand, I
started.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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