In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
I could not, however, and I replied, “I’m going back to the robbers,”
and sat down. This was too much, and one of them dismounted and gave me
his horse, running by my side. I now saw that we were rapidly moving
off, pursued by the robbers; vague shooting out of all range was going
on in every direction; and also as far as the eye could reach, isolated
_footmen_ with guns and sticks could be seen making the best of their
way to the fight. Fortunately, we were mounted, for I could see two
hundred men at least—they were _Bakhtiaris_. Discretion was decidedly
the better part of valour. After some three hours’ cantering, we reached
Yezdikhast at noon, and I was carried from my horse into a house; my
feet, full of thorns, I was unable to put to the ground; my head, used
to the protection of a sola topi, was covered only by a small pot hat of
nammad, to the edge of which, when he gave it me, finding it did not fit,
a friendly highwayman had given a gash with his knife, which enabled me
to get it on. As he handed it to me, he made a significant gesture with
his knife across his throat—a cheerful joke these men were prone to. I
felt really ill after the excitement and exposure; for, though the nights
were cold, the sun in the morning was very strong, and my feet were very
painful and swollen; I could not walk.
Two old women now busied themselves in extracting the thorns from my
feet, and they had three hours’ work. My feet were not right for a couple
of months, and many thorns remained in. There were no horses in the
post-house. I had no clothes and no money, and I was anxious to get on. A
nice position!
And now came a curious episode of want of hospitality on the part of the
khedkhoda (head-man of the village). Although he had led the horsemen who
rescued me, and might naturally expect a handsome present, he would not
lend or sell me a rag, nor would he give me any refreshment, though he
knew me perfectly well, and was quite aware of my solvency. Neither could
I get any food from him. So there was nothing for it but to have myself
carried to the chupperkhana, and get what I could from the postmaster,
a poor villager. I did get some clothes from him, but they were not
over-clean, and I then persuaded him to give me credit for a dinner and
my horse hire, and succeeded, after some wrangle, in a promise of both.
At a couple of hours after sunset, the khedkhoda sent me by a boy the
leg of a fowl and a little rice; this I sent away, saying that he knew
that was not the way to send me a dinner, and that I should report his
conduct. I got some fried eggs and bread from the postmaster, and a few
moments after a handsome Persian dinner was sent by the khedkhoda, who
had become alarmed. He arrived himself, and smilingly motioned me to set
to. I was so enraged at his treatment, that I emptied the dinner—rice,
fowls, roast lamb, and melted grease—into his face, and threw the big
copper tray after him, and he retreated humbled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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