In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
Persian confectionery has attained a high pitch of excellence, everything
being pretty to the eye; but they have little idea beyond the flavour
of lemon-juice, so that most of their efforts are sickly sweet. Toffee
(“sowan”) is well made and like our own. Their ices and sherbets (syrups
in iced water) are excellent. Jams are numerous and good; conserves of
melon and cucumber, also citron, are made. Dried fruits are abundant;
cherries, apricots, peaches, apples. Pickles are made in all the
varieties, similar to English ones, but in addition grapes, oranges,
apples, lemons, aubergines, chillies (green), and tomatoes are common
pickles.
Dried and salted fish are much used, but fresh-water fish are little
valued, except the salmon and the trout.
Dried prawns and shrimps are carried all over the country from the
Persian Gulf.
Dates are the _staple_ in the south of Persia, and form a large portion
of the food of the poor all over the country. Fresh and preserved dates
are a dessert luxury. Melons, pumpkins, water-melons, are much consumed,
while all the common English fruits, save the gooseberry, currant, and
medlar, are cheap and within the reach of all; as are also grapes, in
endless profusion, peaches, nectarines, and apricots.
The bamiah (lady’s finger) and aubergine are additions to the usual
English list of vegetables, and the nohl-kohl is in common use, while
radishes the size of a fist are a common food of villagers.
Cheese and butter are cheap, being about twopence a pound, while flour
in the great cities seldom exceeds a penny a pound (bread is the same
price), and in villages is much cheaper.
With all these things to be got, Persia is really the poor man’s
paradise; in fact, _to live in, the cheapest country in the world_.
Tea and coffee are much drunk; the prices are those of Europe for tea,
but the best _Mocha_ coffee is only a shilling a pound. The only dear
necessaries are lump-sugar and European candles. Good wine may be got
for from threepence to one shilling a quart, and native arrack is from
one-and-threepence to one-and-ninepence a bottle.
In the bazaar are cook-shops where the labouring people resort; here are
sold bowls of soup, pillaws, kabobs (a separate trade), and a cut off a
sheep roasted whole may be had in Ispahan. The trade of kalleh-puz, or
cooker of sheep’s heads and feet, is a common one; the head and feet of
sheep are slowly simmered for some twelve hours, and the liquor sold as
soup; the feet, tongues, and heads being retailed to peripatetic vendors.
The butchers sell by weight, and have no idea of joints; the buyer is
allowed to hack off a large or small portion, and price is the same,
irrespective of part. The liver, lights, and kidneys, with the heart,
are only eaten by the poor, while the suet is carefully removed for the
candle-maker, and can only be had at a higher price than the meat. The
huge tail of the Persian sheep is looked on as a delicacy, and a portion
is allotted to each buyer.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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