In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
Those who did not go out of sight drew down the big sheets of printed
calico that covered their heads, turning themselves into faceless
bundles, terminated in bare legs visible to the knee, with feet either
bare or thrust into tiny slippers; even the very little girls had veils,
though they did not cover their faces, and were mostly pretty little
round-faced things, with large eyes, and fringes of black hair cut across
their foreheads.
I had been told not to appear to notice anything, as that would be
interpreted as a desire to _look at_ the inhabitants of the anderūn,
which would be considered the height of bad breeding. So I kept my eyes
discreetly fixed on the ground, feeling certain that I should find plenty
of time for thorough investigation.
The old eunuch took me into a room, beautifully carpeted, and bare of all
furniture save one chair, on which I was directed to sit.
He left me, and I noticed that the room was decorated with small mirrors
let into elaborately cut plaster-of-Paris work; the walls were so covered
with small facets of mirror that one could hardly see anything of the
white plaster, which was arched at the ceiling, arch within arch, in
the manner so familiar to us in the decoration of the Alhambra; but a
peculiarly chaste effect was produced, for neither colour nor gilding
was used—only pure white plaster and mirror. In many places there were
panels, where plaster-work, cut (not moulded) in high relief, showed
patterns whose effectiveness could not be denied. In fact, the result
was one of chastened splendour quite new to me. The doors, which were
of polished walnut-wood, were covered by curtains of bright colours of
Yezd silk, some six feet by four, simply suspended in front of them. The
window, which occupied one entire end of the room, was composed of small
pieces of glass of all the colours of the rainbow, set in a wooden frame
of a geometrical pattern of a very elaborate nature; as the window was
some fourteen feet by ten, and no piece of glass was more than two inches
square in size, some idea may be formed of the enormous amount of work in
such a piece of carpentry. The wood employed in such work is plane, and
it does not warp.
This window was made in three compartments; each one was made to draw up
when required, thus giving a full view of the garden; all were, however,
at present down, and the coloured light which entered produced a very
rich effect—a relief, too, from the strong sunlight outside.
Round three sides of the room were nummuds, or felt carpets, some two
inches thick; as one walked on them, it was like going over the softest
turf; they were light-ochre in colour, with a pale-blue pattern inlaid.
In the centre was a carpet some twenty feet by nine. I had never seen
such a carpet; it was very beautiful, but of very subdued colours, and of
a rather large pattern.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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