In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
Then a poet recited an ode, and got also a dress of honour; and then, at
the royal command, men bearing trays of gold coin distributed handfuls
to the officials, the number and size of the handful being in proportion
to rank; the bigger people, who stood in the front ranks, getting the
larger and more numerous handfuls. Even Mr. D⸺, who was in a back row,
got some seventy kerans (three pounds). The coins were gold, and very
thin, and are instituted for this special occasion; they are called
“shahis,” which is, literally, “king’s money,” and were worth some one
shilling and eightpence each. During the excitement and scramble that
the distribution occasioned, the king retired, and the orderly ranks of
Government servants became at once a seething crowd.
We lookers-on now crossed the room and stood at a balcony which commanded
the public square. This was kept clear by a double line of soldiers all
in new clothes for the occasion. The space was occupied by dancers,
buffoons, jugglers, wrestlers, sword-and-buckler men, and owners of
fighting sheep and bulls, with their animals; while in front of the big
pond or hauz, immediately below our balcony, stood twenty wretched Jews
in rags and tatters, prepared to be thrust head over heels into the water
for the royal delectation.
The king’s farrashes kept up showers of good-humoured blows on an
equally good-humoured crowd at all the entrances. Not less than fourteen
to sixteen thousand people were present; all were on the tiptoe of
expectation.
Suddenly a cannon from among a battery in the square was discharged, and
the king appeared. The entire crowd bowed to the ground three times; then
the people shouted and cheered, the dancers went through their antics,
the buffoons began their jokes, some forty pairs of wrestlers struggled
for mastery, among whom was the king’s giant, seven feet eight inches
high; gymnasts threw up and caught huge clubs, and showed feats of
strength and skill; the swordsmen engaged in cut and thrust, hacking each
other’s bucklers; the jugglers showed their sleight of hand; the fighting
bulls and sheep rushed at each other; the royal bands and the regimental
ones struck up different tunes; the zambūreks (or camel artillery)
discharged their little cannon; the Jews were cast into the tank, and on
coming out were again thrown in by the farrashes and executioners; while
the rest of the cannon fired away merrily in every direction; the bulls
got among the crowd, the women shrieked and the men shouted.
Handfuls of gold coin were thrown to the various performers, for which
they violently scrambled; and amidst the smoke and cries the king retired.
The royal salaam was over, and we struggled through the crowd within the
palace to our horses at the gate, and rode home through a happy mob,
having assisted at a great Persian festival.
I dined at the Russian, English, and French embassies several times at
Teheran. As the entertainments were European there is nothing to be
described.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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