In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
A short cut across Rumbles Moor brings us to the road to Keighley,
the last link in the chain of manufacturing towns stretching up the
Aire from Leeds and which we must pass to reach Haworth, a name that
suggests to anyone conversant with English letters the gifted but
unfortunate Bronte family. Haworth has no doubt been influenced in
population and activity by its busy neighbor, Keighley, but the "four
tough scrambling miles" that Charles Dickens found on his visit a
third of a century ago still lie between. The whole distance is a
continual climb, terminating at the top of the hill, to which the
old town seems to cling rather precariously. Indeed, there were few
more forbidding ascents that confronted us than this terribly steep,
rough street--so steep that the paving stones have been set on edge to
enable the horses to climb it. It is bordered with old-world buildings,
gray and weather-beaten, and forms a fit avenue to the church that
dominates the town from the hill and whose massive square tower looks
far over the desolate moorlands beyond it. We visited hundreds of
ancient churches in England and the surroundings of many were somber
and even depressing, but surely none approached Haworth churchyard
in the deep, all-pervading gloom that hovered over the blackened
and thickly clustered gravestones and dimmed the very sunlight that
struggled through the trees which encircle the place. The hilltop is
given up to the churchyard and there seems to be scarcely room for
another grave, so thickly stand the mouldering memorials, which mostly
antedate the time of the Brontes. Out beyond, to the westward, lie the
wild black and purple moors, sweeping away even higher than the church
itself and ending in a long wave of hills rippling darkly against the
horizon.
When "Jane Eyre," published in 1847, astonished the literary world,
few indeed would have guessed that the humble authoress lived in this
lonely village, then by far lonelier and more remote than it is today;
and it is still a wonder how one with such surroundings and of such
limited experience was able to fathom life so deeply. But one need not
be at a loss to account for the strain of melancholy that runs through
the writings of the gifted sisters. The isolated, dreary village, the
church and rectory, then almost ruinous, the desolate moor lands and
the family tragedy--the only son dying an irreclaimable drunkard--might
furnish a background of gloom even for Wuthering Heights. The sisters
rest in early graves, Charlotte, the eldest, dying last, in 1855, at
the age of thirty-nine. All, together with the father and unhappy
brother, are buried in Haworth churchyard save Anne, who lies in St.
Mary's at Scarborough.
[Illustration: HAWORTH CHURCH.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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