In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
Naworth Castle, also an estate of the Earl of Carlisle, the owner of
Castle Howard, is just off the road before entering Brampton, eight or
nine miles out of Carlisle. It is thrown open with the same freedom
that prevails at the great Yorkshire house, but though the greater part
of Naworth is far older, it has less to interest the casual visitor.
Situated as it is in the very center of the scenes of border turmoil,
it has a stirring history dating back to 1300, when it was built by
Lord Dacre, ancestor of the Howards. The story of his elopement with
the heiress who owned the estate and who was betrothed to a boy of
seven, and of the subsequent pardon of the lovers by the King Edward,
forms a romantic background for the stern-looking old place; but we
will not recount the many legends that gathered about the castle during
the long period of border warfare. Escaping almost unscathed during
the castle-smashing time of Cromwell, Naworth suffered severely from
fire in 1844, but the interior has since been remodeled into a fairly
comfortable modern dwelling. Here again the artistic and literary
tastes of the owner are evident in the valuable library and the fine
gallery of paintings.
[Illustration: NAWORTH CASTLE.]
Continuing our way through Naworth Park, we drop down the narrow and
fearfully steep lane to the vale of the Irthing and cross over the old
high-arched bridge to Lanercost Priory. The rain is still falling and
no doubt the custodian has given up hope of visitors on such a day,
for he cannot be found; but we discover the gardener, who secures the
keys from the neighboring rectory and proves himself a capable guide.
The abbey church has been restored by the Carlisles and is used by the
parish as a place of worship. All about are the red sandstone ruins
of a once great monastery. We wander among the mossy grave-stones and
crumbling tombs,
"The 'Miserere' in the moss,
The 'Mercy Jesu' in the rain,"
calling up thoughts of a forgotten order of things. In the roofless
chapel we pause before an altar-tomb, its sandstone bosses water-soaked
and crumbling in the rain--it is the oldest in the abbey and covers the
grave of Lord Roland de Vaux of Triermaine, an ancestor of the Dacres.
The name seems familiar and the lines,
"Murmuring over the name again,
Lord Roland de Vaux of Triermaine,"
come unbidden to my mind. Ah, yes! it is in the weird music of
"Christabel" that the name of the long-dead baron is interwoven, and
perhaps his "castle good" was the predecessor of Naworth. There are
other elaborate tombs of the Dacres and Howards, and there is a world
of pathos in Sir Edward Boehm's terra cotta effigy of little Elizabeth,
daughter of the present earl, who died in 1883. It is the figure of
an infant child asleep, with one little rounded arm thrown above the
head and the other folded gracefully on the breast, while a quiet smile
plays over the dimpled face--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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