In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
From the wall on the highest point of the mound, one has a wide
prospect. It was a clear lucent day and when we climbed a broken tower
the whole peninsula of Purbeck spread beneath us like a map. It is now
bleak and sterile, spotted with gorse and heather and broken in places
with chalk cliffs. Yet when the castle was built the region was covered
with a stately forest, of which no trace now remains. Far to the north
we see the Wareham road winding away like a serpent, while a stony
trail cuts squarely across the moor to the west. When we prepare to
take our leave, we ask the custodian concerning the road to Lulworth,
and he points out the uninviting byway through the fields. We had
planned to return to Wareham, but this route, he assures us, is shorter
and "very good,"--strange ideas of good roads had the old man if he
could so describe the ten miles through the moors to Lulworth, quite as
bad as any of equal distance we found in ten thousand miles.
But before we go shall we ask the story of Corfe? The tales of the
abbeys and castles are much alike and their end nearly always the
same--dismantled by Henry, destroyed by Cromwell. Still, Corfe is very
old; its records go back to Saxon times. How weird it is to think that
in front of the towers that grimly guard the entrance King Edward
the Martyr was stabbed by order of his stepmother, Elfrida, as he
paused to quaff a goblet of wine. It happened more than a thousand
years ago, and from that time until Cromwell's gunpowder sent walls
and towers tottering to destruction, the sequestered castle was the
scene of intermittent turmoil and bloodshed. Sir Christopher Hatton
built the more modern portions during the reign of Elizabeth, but Corfe
brought him only trouble. In 1633 it passed from the possession of his
descendant to Sir John Bankes, a loyal supporter of King Charles, and
while he was active in court and field, his energetic wife held the
castle against all comers. One siege she repulsed and the surrender in
1646 was brought about only by treachery. Brave Lady Bankes! The story
of her gallant defense will not be forgotten while a single fragment of
the old fortress remains on its bleak, wind-swept hill.
But they have told us that Lulworth and its cove are worth seeing and
we are soon away over the moorland road. A strenuous ten miles it is,
rough, stony, steep, with numerous gates to open and close between
the fields, and in places the road is so overgrown with grass and
heather as to be hardly discernible. But from the uplands which it
traverses one may see the ocean on the left and to the right a long
array of rolling hills and winding valleys, all in the purple glow of
full-blown heather, with here and there a lonely cottage or group of
trees. We begin a long descent, following the edge of the hill toward
the sea, and a sharp turn leads down a short steep grade into Lulworth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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