In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
So much of our glimpse of Wimborne Minster; it is late and we are bound
for Southampton, forty or more miles away as we propose to go. The
road to Ringwood and from thence to Lymington leads through an open,
heathlike country--stretches of rank-growing ferns interspersed with
the vivid purple of the heather. A little beyond Ringwood we enter New
Forest, though in this section little of the forest--as one thinks of
the word now--is to be seen. There are occasional groups of trees,
but the prevailing feature of the landscape is the fern-clad heath. A
cheerless road it is, but open, finely surfaced and nearly level, with
nothing to hinder the mad rush of our motor.
At Lymington we hail a citizen and inquire in our best French accent
for the road to Beaulieu. He studies awhile and shakes his head. Then
we seek a never-failing source of information--a garage man--but to our
astonishment he is puzzled.
"Boloo, Boloo; never heard of it."
"What, the old abbey? It can't be far from here."
"O, you mean Bewley, to be sure--eight miles straight away; you can't
miss it."
We hasten on over the moors and through a stretch of woodland into a
wooded valley, where we come to a village more pleasing than any we
have yet seen in Dorset--a village of thatched cottages and flower
gardens fitting well into the charming surroundings. The river, held in
leash by a weir, lies in broad, silvery reaches, fringed with willows,
and groups of pond lilies dot its surface. Beaulieu, aside from its
abbey, might be a shrine for the motorist, for here is the estate of
Lord Montague, an enthusiast for the wind-shod steed, who has exchanged
his ancestral stables for motors, and, to cap it all, is owner and
editor of "The Car."
There is not much left of the abbey. Henry VIII., with characteristic
thrift, floated the stone down the river to build Hurst Castle. The
refectory, now restored and used as a parish church, is the most
perfect remnant of the once magnificent establishment, whose church
almost equalled the huge dimensions of Winchester Cathedral. The late
lord did much to restore the ruins, which are now surrounded by lawns
and shrubbery. The monks of Beaulieu had wide fame for good cheer--they
kept great vineyards and their wines were counted the best in England.
The vineyards throve long after the Dissolution, but the last vine,
several hundred years old, disappeared about two centuries ago. Just
across the river there is a substantial, comfortable hotel belonging
to Lord Montague, which is much frequented by fishermen.
[Illustration: AN ISLE OF WIGHT ROAD.]
An hour's run over level but winding roads brought us to the Great
Western Hotel in Southampton. It was a needless trip, after all, for
the Isle of Wight is best reached from Lymington, whither we returned
in the morning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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