In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
One may care little about William Rufus, who was so fond of hunting in
New Forest and who, while engaged in his favorite pastime, was killed
by a forester's arrow; yet a pilgrimage to the spot where he is said
to have fallen is worth while--not merely to see the iron casting which
encases the old stone, but to view one of the prettiest glades in the
forest. We came early in the day, which is the time to come to avoid
the crowds of trippers who flock here in season, and we had undivided
possession of the scene of sylvan beauty. A shaded byway leads to the
main road, which soon brings us to Romsey.
There is little to detain the wayfarer in Romsey aside from the abbey
church, whose high roof reaches almost to the top of its central
tower--in fact, the noble bulk of the church rises over the town,
completely dwarfing the low buildings that crowd closely around it. One
can but admire its great size and perfect proportions, and though there
may be incongruous details, these will hardly be noticed by the layman.
The interior is almost pure Norman--massive pillars supporting the
great rounded arches. The height and size of the columns give the
church an impressiveness that is hardly surpassed by any other in the
Kingdom, and after Durham, it easily ranks as the finest example of
Norman architecture extant. It dates mainly from the twelfth century,
and a Saxon church previously occupied the site, slight remains of this
being incorporated into the present building. The most remarkable Saxon
relic is a life-size image of Christ upon the cross, of a type not
found later than the eleventh century.
There is often a gruesome side to the old English church--a bit of
human skin flayed from a living church robber is shown at Gloucester,
frightful effigies representing decayed corpses at Canterbury and
Sherborne, and at Romsey a broad plait of human hair, found in recent
restoration work. It was in a leaden casket and even the bones had
mouldered to dust, but the soft brown hair was almost unaltered, and
it is thought to have adorned the head of some Roman maiden, for the
casket showed traces of Roman work. The old caretaker has reserved this
weird little relic for the last of his wonders--we leave the abbey and
pass out into the sunshine of the perfect summer day. We shall not soon
forget Romsey Abbey Church and we cast more than one backward glance as
its giant bulk recedes in the distance.
[Illustration: ABBEY CHURCH, ROMSEY.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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