In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
After sunset we wander about the old streets, where even the more
modern buildings conform to the all-pervading air of antiquity. It is
the close of the Saturday holiday and the main street is packed with
a cheerful crowd of people of all degrees. Shop-keepers improve the
opportunity to sell their wares and a lively trade is carried on at
the open booths along the walks. One butcher is especially active in
booming business, having a fellow in front of his place, a "barker," we
would style him in the States, who bellows in a voice like a foghorn,
"Lovely meat! the same that the king and nobility heats--lovely meat."
Surely a recommendation that would shake the resolution of a confirmed
vegetarian.
But we soon weary of the glare and noise of the crowded street. We
wander into the crooked lanes that lead to the nooks and corners about
the cathedral. We catch the towers from different viewpoints; as they
stand, boldly outlined against an opalescent sky flecked with red-toned
clouds, they form a fit study for the artist--and one of which the
artist has often availed himself. The college court is full of shadows;
how easy it would be to imagine a cowled figure stealing along in the
dusk and passing from sight in the Norman entrance yonder--than which
there is no choicer bit of medieval architecture in the Kingdom.
We have the whole of the following day to reach London; and what a
superb day it is, the very essence of the beauty of English midsummer!
We have been over the Rochester and Maidstone road before, so we take
the narrow and hilly but marvelously picturesque highway that drops
some fourteen miles straight southward. The country through which it
passes is distinctly rural, with here and there a grove or a farmhouse.
A little to one side is Petham, a quiet hamlet under gigantic trees,
with a half-timbered inn seemingly out of all proportion to the
possible needs of the place. The main road running from Hythe, near the
coast, through Ashford to Tunbridge Wells, a distance of about fifty
miles, is one of the finest in the Kingdom. It runs in broad, sweeping
curves through a gently undulating country, and the grades are seldom
enough to check the motor's flight. It had lately been re-surfaced and
much of the way oiled or asphalted, quite eliminating dust. We pass
much charming country, wooded hills, stretches of meadowland, fields
of yellowing grains, and many sleepy villages, all shimmering in the
lucent air of a perfect summer day. The sky is as blue as one ever sees
it in England, and a few silvery-white clouds drift lazily across it.
It is what the natives call a very warm day, but it seems only balmy to
us.
[Illustration: ON THE DOWNS.
From Original Painting by Alfred Elias.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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