In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
I am going to write a chapter, though it be a short one, on Ludlow
Town, which, among the hundreds of places rich in historic association
and redolent of romance that we visited in our wanderings, still
continues pre-eminent in our memories. We took occasion to pause here
four or five times for the night, and each succeeding sojourn only
served to heighten our appreciation of the delightful old town and
its traditions. One will not tire of the Feathers Inn--surely one of
the most charming of the very old hostelries and noted as one of the
best preserved brick-and-timber houses in the Kingdom. True, copious
applications of black and white paint gives it a somewhat glaring
appearance, but the beauty of the sixteenth century facade with its
jutting gables, carved beams and antique windows, will appeal to the
most casual beholder. The interior is old-fashioned, but comfortable
withal, and an air of quiet pervades the place. It is not without a
touch of modernity, for between our first and last visit gas lights
superseded candles. On one occasion, when the Feathers was full, we
went to the Angel and will not soon forget the portly Boniface who
welcomed us: a mighty man indeed, who might well be the prince of
inn-keepers and who would tip the scale at not less than twenty-five
stone--for thus they reckon ones weight in England.
Nothing could be more delightful on the evening of a fine summer day
than to wander about the town and to view the church tower and castle
walls from different angles. Our favorite walk was over the castle
bridge and along the river, whose waters beyond the weir lay broad and
still, reflecting the gray towers far above. One will find few more
romantic sights than the rugged bulk of Ludlow Castle, standing on
its clifflike eminence in sharp outline against the evening sky. Just
beneath rise the ranks of stately lime trees bordering the pleasant
walk cut in the hill slope, which falls sharply to a narrow bank along
the river. One may complete the circuit by following the path between
the trees and making a rather steep descent to the road along the bank.
The river above the weir is radiant with the reflected glories of the
skies; and the rush of the falling water alone breaks on the evening
stillness. We linger long; the crimson fades from the heavens and
river, but a new, almost ethereal beauty possesses the scene under the
dominance of a full summer moon. The walls and towers lose their traces
of decay in the softened light, and one might easily imagine Ludlow
Castle, proud and threatening, as it stood in the good old times. Did
we catch a glint of armor on yonder grim old tower, or a gleam of
rushlight through its ruinous windows? But our reverie vanishes as the
notes of "Home Sweet Home" come to us, clear and sweet from the church
tower chime.
[Illustration: LUDLOW CASTLE, THE WALK BENEATH THE WALL.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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