In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
The half-dozen miles between Gloucester and Tewkesbury are quickly done
and we halt in front of a wide green, studded with gigantic trees,
amidst which rises the huge bulk of a church almost as imposing as
the cathedral that has barely faded from our view. But it lacks the
gracefulness and perfect proportion of the Gloucester church and
perhaps its most striking exterior feature is the arch over the western
windows, so high and majestic as to remind one of Peterborough. The
interior is mainly ponderous Norman--rows of heavy pillars flanking
the long nave and supporting massive rounded arches. The windows,
however, are the lighter and more graceful creations of the Decorated
Period, though the glass is mostly modern. Among the tombs is that of
Prince Edward, son of Henry VI., who was cruelly slain in the battle
of Tewkesbury, so fatal to the Lancastrian cause. Here, too, lies the
"false, fleeting, perjured Clarence," of Shakespeare; and Somerset,
executed by his captors after the battle. The abbey was marked for
destruction by Henry VIII., who was deterred from his purpose by a
public subscription. Tewkesbury is rather decadent, and has many houses
in brick and timber as yet quite unspoiled by modern improvement. It is
pleasantly situated on the banks of the classic Avon near its junction
with the Severn, and the many-arched stone bridge over the former river
is unusually picturesque. Half a mile farther a second bridge crosses
the Severn, which lies in broad, still reaches dotted with small craft
of every description.
Over these bridges we hastened away toward Hereford, following a level
though sinuous road. The old-world quaintness of Ledbury attracted
our attention. Its rectangular timber market cross, supported on a
colonnade of wooden pillars, is unusual indeed. And nowhere else did we
find finer specimens of Elizabethan half-timbered houses, though some
of them were rather tawdry in recent applications of black and white
paint. Such houses have become quite the rage and some owners have
gone so far as to paint black stripes on common brick to represent the
timbers. However, no such travesty as this is necessary in Ledbury--the
town is overflowing with the genuine article--genuine though disfigured
in some cases by the bad taste of the man with the paint pot. Church
Lane, leading from the main street up a gentle slope to the church, is
bordered with splendid examples of Elizabethan houses, quite unaltered
since they left the builders' hands. At the end of the lane one sees a
graceful spire standing apart from the church, which is quite unique
in design. It has four sharply pitched roofs running parallel, with
odd little minarets between them. The interior has the newness of
recent restoration and shows traces of different styles, from Norman
to Perpendicular. Ledbury has an institute which commemorates its
association with Elizabeth Barrett Browning, who passed her girlhood
near the town.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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