In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
At Hereford we sought the cathedral, having missed the interior during
a former visit. A small, bare-headed boy in a red sweater saw us pause
before the close and marked us as his legitimate prey. "I'll take you
into the Bishop's Palace," he said in such a matter-of-fact way that it
disarmed our suspicions and we followed the youngster meekly enough,
for with all our doing of cathedrals we had caught only glimpses of
bishops' palaces, usually embowered in gardens and apparently quite
inaccessible. We had no opportunity to question our small guide as he
rapidly led us through the palace grounds, but when he unhesitatingly
rang at the door, we insisted on an explanation and learned that the
bishop and his family were in London. During their absence the palace
was thrown open to the public and our small friend was doubtless
improving the opportunity to put cathedral visitors under obligations
to himself.
We were admitted and wandered about at will. It is a rambling old
house and indicates that a bishop occupies about the same plane in
his domestic appointments as a prosperous member of the nobility,
among whom, in fact, he takes a high rank. The house was sumptuously
furnished and had several great rooms with high decorated ceilings and
windows that looked out on the pleasant grounds, bright with flowers
and shrubbery. The study pleased us most, with its high bookshelves
about the walls and tall mullioned bow windows which open almost
directly on the Wye. It was easy to see why the English bishops nearly
all complain that their salaries, though apparently large, are hardly
adequate to the state they are expected to maintain; and why, as in the
case of an American ambassador, a private fortune is often necessary
to enable the recipient of such an honor to pay the legitimate
expenses. Our picture will show, perhaps better than any description,
the beauty of the river front of the palace, with the fine trees and
cathedral tower in the background. We had only a moment to look about
the cathedral, since the closing hour was nearly at hand. However, we
missed little, for Hereford Cathedral has few historic associations and
recent restoration gives it an almost new appearance. It is built of
red sandstone, which gives the interior a rather warm tone, accentuated
by highly-colored modern windows.
[Illustration: BISHOP'S PALACE, HEREFORD.]
A pause for the night at Ludlow, where we arrived after a run of an
hour or two through the rich pasture lands along the Welsh Border, gave
us an opportunity of renewing our pleasant associations with that fine
old town. But as we were to visit Ludlow thrice before the close of our
pilgrimage, I shall leave our impressions and discoveries for later
consideration.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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