In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
History
In Unfamiliar England: A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.
Murphy, Thos. D. (Thomas Dowler)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
The Sheffield road follows the hills, which towered high above us at
times or again dropped almost sheer away below to a black, tumbling
stream. In one place, beneath an almost mountainous hill, we had an
adventure which startled us more than any other occurrence of our tour.
From the summit of a hill hundreds of feet above us, some miscreant
loosened a huge boulder, which plunged down the declivity seemingly
straight at us, but by good fortune missed our car by a few yards. The
perpetrator of the atrocity immediately disappeared and there was no
chance of tracing him. Happily, we had no similar outrage to record of
all our twelve thousand miles in Britain, and we pass the act as that
of a criminal or lunatic. This road was built about the beginning of
the nineteenth century and a competent authority expresses doubt if
there is a finer, better-engineered road in England than that between
Glossop and Ashopton, a village about half way to Sheffield, and adds,
"or one where houses are so rare--or the sight of an inn rouses such
pleasureable anticipation," though one of these, "The Snake," must have
other attractions than its name. It is indeed a fine road, though by no
means unmatched by many others--the Manchester road to the northwest
fully equals it, and following as it does the series of fine reservoirs
lying in the valleys, is superior in scenery.
We took a short cut through Sheffield, the city of knives, razors and
silver plate, caught a second glimpse of Chesterfield's reeling spire,
and swept over the hills into Mansfield just as the long twilight was
fading into night.
The next morning our hostess of The Swan placed in our hands the
much-sought-for pass to Newstead Abbey, and to while the time until
the hour set for admittance, we went by the way of Hucknall, to visit
Byron's grave in the church whose square-topped tower dominates the
town. Recent restoration gives an air of newness, for Hucknall Church,
when Byron's remains were laid before its altar, was little better than
a ruin. The old man working over the graves in the churchyard knew
full well our mission and leaving his task accosted us in unmistakable
Irish brogue. He led us directly to the poet's tomb, and it was with
deep feeling not unmixed with awe that we advanced toward the high
altar of Hucknall Church and stood silent and uncovered before the
grave of Byron. On the wall over the tomb were graven two of those
passages whose lofty sentiments glitter like gems--though betimes in
inharmonious setting--throughout the poet's writings, which breathe
the high hopes he felt in his better moments. Well may the tablet over
his last resting-place bear the inspired lines:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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