Inca Land: Explorations in the Highlands of PeruBingham, Hiram
History
Inca Land: Explorations in the Highlands of Peru
Bingham, Hiram
Incas; Peru -- Antiquities; Peru -- Description and travel
Incidentally it is interesting to note that although Sartiges was
an enthusiastic explorer, eager to visit undescribed Inca ruins,
he makes no mention whatever of Machu Picchu. Yet from Huadquiña
one can reach Machu Picchu on foot in half a day without crossing
the Urubamba River. Apparently the ruins were unknown to his hosts
in 1834. They were equally unknown to our kind hosts in 1911. They
scarcely believed the story I told them of the beauty and extent of
the Inca edifices. [10] When my photographs were developed, however,
and they saw with their own eyes the marvelous stonework of the
principal temples, Señora Carmen and her family were struck dumb
with wonder and astonishment. They could not understand how it was
possible that they should have passed so close to Machu Picchu every
year of their lives since the river road was opened without knowing
what was there. They had seen a single little building on the crest
of the ridge, but supposed that it was an isolated tower of no great
interest or importance. Their neighbor, Lizarraga, near the bridge
of San Miguel, had reported the presence of the ruins which he first
visited in 1904, but, like our friends in Cuzco, they had paid little
attention to his stories. We were soon to have a demonstration of
the causes of such skepticism.
Our new friends read with interest my copy of those paragraphs of
Calaucha's "Chronicle" which referred to the location of the last Inca
capital. Learning that we were anxious to discover Uiticos, a place of
which they had never heard, they ordered the most intelligent tenants
on the estate to come in and be questioned. The best informed of all
was a sturdy mestizo, a trusted foreman, who said that in a little
valley called Ccllumayu, a few hours' journey down the Urubamba, there
were "important ruins" which had been seen by some of Señora Carmen's
Indians. Even more interesting and thrilling was his statement that on
a ridge up the Salcantay Valley was a place called Yurak Rumi (yurak =
"white"; rumi = "stone") where some very interesting ruins had been
found by his workmen when cutting trees for firewood. We all became
excited over this, for among the paragraphs which I had copied from
Calancha's "Chronicle" was the statement that "close to Uiticos" is the
"white stone of the aforesaid house of the Sun which is called Yurak
Rumi." Our hosts assured us that this must be the place, since no
one hereabouts had ever heard of any other Yurak Rumi. The foreman,
on being closely questioned, said that he had seen the ruins once or
twice, that he had also been up the Urubamba Valley and seen the great
ruins at Ollantaytambo, and that those which he had seen at Yurak Rumi
were "as good as those at Ollantaytambo." Here was a definite statement
made by an eyewitness. Apparently we were about to see that interesting
rock where the last Incas worshiped. However, the foreman said that
the trail thither was at present impassable, although a small gang of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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