Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, Vol. I.Stephens, John L.
History
Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, Vol. I.
Stephens, John L.
Yucatán (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel
The two engravings represent about one fifth of the whole facade; the
other four fifths were enriched with the same mass of sculptured
ornaments, and toward the south end the head and tail of the serpents
corresponded in design and position with the portion still existing at
the other. Had it been our fortune to reach this place a few years
sooner, we might have seen the whole entire. Don Simon told us that in
1835 the whole front stood, and the two serpents were seen encircling
every ornament in the building. In its ruins it presents a lively idea
of the "large and very well constructed buildings of lime and stone"
which Bernal Dias saw on landing at Campeachy, "with figures of
serpents and of idols painted on the walls."
At the end of the courtyard, and fronting the gate of entrance, is the
facade of a lofty building, two hundred and sixty-four feet long,
standing on a terrace twenty feet high. The ascent is by a grand but
ruined staircase, ninety-five feet wide, flanked on each side by a
building with sculptured front, and having three doorways, each leading
to apartments within.
The height of this building to the upper cornice is twenty-five feet.
It has thirteen doorways, over each of which rose a perpendicular wall
ten feet wide and seventeen feet high above the cornice, making the
whole height forty-two feet from the ground. These lofty structures
were no doubt erected to give grandeur and effect to the building, and
at a distance they appear to be turrets, but only four of them now
remain. The whole great facade, including the turrets, is crowded with
complicated and elaborate sculpture, among which are human figures
rudely executed: two are represented as playing on musical instruments,
one being not unlike a small harp, and the other in the nature of a
guitar; a third is in a sitting posture, with his hands across his
breast, and tied by cords, the ends of which pass over his shoulders.
Of the rest there is nothing which stands out distinct and intelligible
like the serpent, and the whole, loaded as it is with ornament, conveys
the idea of vastness and magnificence rather than that of taste and
refinement.
This building has on curious feature. It is erected over, and
completely encloses, a smaller one of older date. The doorways, walls,
and wooden lintels of the latter are all seen, and where the outer
building is fallen, the ornamented cornice of the inner one is visible.
[Engraving 22: View from the Nuns]
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