Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, Vol. I.Stephens, John L.
History
Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, Vol. I.
Stephens, John L.
Yucatán (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel
The next morning we visited him again. His sunken eye lighted up as he
inquired about our excavations at Uxmal, and a smile played upon his
lips as he alluded to the superstition of the Indians about digging up
the bones in San Francisco. Our visit seemed to give him so much
satisfaction, that, though we could not talk with him, we remained at
the house nearly all day, and the next day we returned to Nohcacab on
horseback. Our visit to Ticul had recruited us greatly, and we found
Mr. Catherwood equally improved. A few days' rest had done wonders for
us all, and we determined immediately to resume our occupations.
On leaving Uxmal we had directed our steps toward Nohcacab, not from
any attractions in the place itself, but on account of the ruins which
we had heard of as existing in that neighbourhood; and, after
ascertaining their position, we considered that they could be visited
to the best advantage by making this place our head-quarters. We had
the prospect of being detained there some time, and, as the casa real
was low, damp, and noisy, and, moreover, our apartment was wanted for
the schoolroom, by the advice of the padrecito we determined to abandon
it, and take up our abode in the convent.
This was a long stone building in the rear of the church, standing on
the same high table-land, overlooking the village, and removed from its
annoyances and bustle. In the part immediately adjoining the church
were two large and convenient apartments, except that, quick in
detecting all which could bring on a recurrence of fever and ague, we
noticed on one side puddles of water and green mould, from the constant
shade of the great wall of the church, and on the door of one of the
rooms was written, "Here died Don Jose Trufique: may his soul rest in
peace."
In these rooms we established ourselves. On one side of us we had the
padrecito, who was always gay and lively, and on the other six or eight
Indian sacristans, or sextons, who were always drunk. Before the door
was a broad high platform, running all round the church, and a little
beyond it was a walled enclosure for our horses. Opposite the door of
the sacristia was a thatched cocina, or kitchen, in which these Indian
church ministers cooked and Albino and Bernaldo slept.
It is ascertained by historical accounts, that at the time of the
conquest an Indian town existed in this immediate neighbourhood,
bearing the name of Nohcacab. This name is compounded of three Maya
words, signifying literally the great place of good land; and from the
numerous and extraordinary ruins scattered around, there is reason to
believe that it was the heart of a rich, and what was once an immensely
populous country. In the suburbs are numerous and large mounds, grand
enough to excite astonishment, but even more fallen and overgrown than
those of San Francisco, and, in fact, almost inaccessible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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