Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, Vol. I.Stephens, John L.
History
Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, Vol. I.
Stephens, John L.
Yucatán (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel
Our friend the cura of Tekoh was still with us, and the Indians of the
hacienda were within his curacy. Again immediately upon our arrival the
bell of the church was tolled to announce his arrival to the sick,
those who wished to confess, marry, or be baptized. This over, it
struck the solemn note of the _oracion_, or vesper prayers. All rose,
and, with uncovered heads stood silent till the last note died away,
all, according to the beautiful injunction of the Catholic Church,
breathing an inward prayer. Then they bade each other a _buenas
noches_, each kissed the cura's hand, and then, with his petata, or
straw hat, in his hand, came to us, bowing respectfully, and wishing
each of us also the good night.
The cura still considered us on his hands, and, in order to entertain
us, requested the major domo to get up a dance of the Indians. Very
soon we heard the sound of the violins and the Indian drum. This latter
consists of a hollow log about three feet long, with a piece of
parchment stretched over the end, on which an Indian, holding it under
his left arm, beats with his right hand. It is the same instrument
known to the inhabitants at the time of the conquest by the name of
_tunkul_ and is the favourite now. Going out into the back corridor, we
saw the musicians sitting at one end, before the door of the chapel; on
one side of the corridor were the women, and on the other the men. For
some time there was no dancing, until, at length, at the instance of
the cura, the major domo gave his directions, and a young man stood up
in the middle of the corridor. Another, with a pocket-handkerchief in
his hand having a knot tied in one end, walked along the line of women,
threw the handkerchief at one, and then returned to his seat. This was
considered a challenge or invitation; but, with a proper prudery, as if
to show that she was not to be had for the asking, she waited some
minutes, then rose, and slowly taking the shawl from her head, placed
herself opposite the young man, at a distance of about ten feet, and
commenced dancing. The dance was called the toros, for the bull. The
movements were slow; occasionally the performers crossed over and
changed places, and when the time ended the lady walked deliberately
off, which either brought the young man to a stand-still, or he went on
dancing, as he liked. The manager or master of ceremonies, who was
called the _bastonero_, again walked along the line, and touched
another lady in the same way with the handkerchief. She again, after
waiting a moment, removed her shawl and took her place on the floor;
and in this way the dance continued, the dancing man being always the
same, and taking the partner provided for him. Afterward the dance was
changed to a Spanish one, in which, instead of castanets, the dancers
from time to time snapped their fingers. This was more lively, and
seemed to please them better than their own, but throughout there was
nothing national or characteristic.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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