Incwadi Yami; or, twenty years' personal experience in South AfricaMatthews, J. W. (Josiah Wright)
History
Incwadi Yami; or, twenty years' personal experience in South Africa
Matthews, J. W. (Josiah Wright)
Diamond mines and mining -- South Africa; South Africa -- Description and travel
“Persuading the captain to let me go, away I went with my companions
at 3 P. M., armed, but with very little water or provisions, as I
fully anticipated reaching Aden, by walking all night, at about ten
o’clock next day. We walked at a good pace, as we were going through a
country peopled by tribes not to be depended on, keeping the sea-beach
in order to push through and get past a point where probably they
might intercept us. We walked until after dark, took a rest and bath
in the sea, and then pushing on, as we heard guns firing in the pitchy
darkness both on our right and left. The phosphorescence of the
breaking surf casting a lurid glare over all. Our guide seemed uneasy,
fired his gun, and then away he went. We thought we were in a regular
trap; lying down on the sand, straining our eyes in the dismal
darkness, we talked over the folly of our starting, asked ourselves
who would thank us if we got our throats cut, and then, seeing our
revolvers all right, we determined to sell our lives as dearly as we
could if attacked. After an hour’s anxious watching and waiting for
the moon, up came three camels with the guide whom we had suspected of
playing us false. He urged us to hurry on, which you may guess we did,
not stopping until 2:30 next morning, nearly done up. Stretching
ourselves out, sleep wanted no wooing. I was off in a minute, and from
the appearance of the moon must have slept about an hour, when we were
awakened by a terrible hot wind. You cannot imagine anything like it;
my hair was dry as stubble in a few moments, nearly stifled,
suffocated, the only shelter I could get was to the ‘leeward’ of a
camel. This wind continued for an hour, when we saddled up and away
again. Let me tell you what camel riding is like. If you can fancy
yourself in a blanket, with a man at each end holding it, and shaking
you continually from one to the other, you may have some faint
conception, but mounting is the worst. The camels are made to squat on
their bellies to enable you to get up, otherwise a ladder would be
needed. Well, when you are in the saddle, which is generally a most
clumsy, primitive arrangement, the camel gets on its knees, which
sends you backward, then up go the hind legs, and you get a contra
pitch forward, and just as you are anticipating to salute your mother
earth, he raises his fore legs, tosses you backward again, and you
find yourself mounted. One of my black companions had a young, frisky
camel which when he jumped on it made these movements so quickly that
number two generally sent him over the camel’s head or left him
hanging on by his legs, heels up, head down, round his neck. It is
always to me intensely ludicrous to hear a nigger swear in English,
and I think the most rigid Puritan would have laughed, at any rate in
his sleeve, to hear this darkie ‘G-d d—n this young fellow (as he
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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