It is the sort of outing that true sons of Arizona enjoy. Carl Hayden,
of Congress, has kept one eye on a Snake Dance and both ears open to
Hopi conditions. Governors Hunt and Campbell have been found there
repeatedly, and Governor Hunt has sought to preserve its record in
pictures for the State Capitol at Phoenix and the museum of the
University of Arizona at Tucson. In these men the Hopi have had good
friends, and at least one Moungwi found them filled with understanding
of the Desert and its peculiar conditions.
At Walpi one has a fit setting for a theatrical ceremony. Roosevelt
wrote of it, “In all America there is no more strikingly picturesque
sight.”
The place of the dance is a narrow shelf at the very edge of the mesa.
The houses of the people, tier on tier, terraced into little balconies,
form a back-drop. Through these houses, and leading from the shelf, a
tunnel gives on to another street. The ledge is simply a continuation
of the rock roadway that skirts the brink of the village, overhanging
the wide First Mesa Valley. There is a sheer drop from this edge,
straight down at least sixty feet, to the masses of shattered stone and
drifted sand that buttress the mesa and shelve off hundreds of feet
more into the orchards. At each end of this shelf is an underground
kiva, marked by its projecting ladder-poles. A curiously eroded rock
seems to balance at one end of the little plaza, between the houses and
the precipice. Before Walpi was evolved for purposes of defense, this
rock existed. Probably it was because of this freak that the place was
selected for the rites of the tribe.
The ground-area available to spectators and dancers measures about
ninety feet in length and not more than thirty in width. This
approximate twenty-seven hundred square feet must contain about forty
Indian actors and a large percentage of the mob, to say nothing of the
snakes, a most important and active feature of the meeting, among which
are many rattlers. It is like staging a nervous ballet on the cornice
of the Woolworth Building, knowing that fifty mice will be turned loose
on signal.
The wisest of the visitors seek places on the balconies and housetops;
but not all of them can be accommodated there. Many are forced, if they
would see anything, to stand on the ledge with the dancers. Dense
groups mass at each end of the plaza and along the house-walls, and men
and boys, white and red, stand four-deep on the outer edge, facing the
snakes, and with a death-drop behind them. A tourist who would hesitate
about hunting a rattlesnake out of a bush will at this time develop
courage beyond all understanding.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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